Since this blog will supposedly hold all my memories of being out and about, I think it’s only fitting that I kick it off with a trip that ranks high up there among the most epic trips of my life… so far. South Korea, March 2013. 6 days. 3 SoKor locales. Not nearly enough time. But definitely worth remembering, and recounting.
A year ago, on this same month, I flew solo from Manila and, after a 6-hour flight, met up early in the morning at the Incheon International Airport with my bestie Sheryll, who is also flying in from Dubai (after a half-day layover in Hong Kong). Our other friend, Peach, already arrived in Seoul a couple of days earlier, and is waiting for us in Myeongdong, where we’re staying while we’re in Seoul.
(This early, I give propz to Peach for doing most of the grunt work. It was She and I who originally agreed to go on this trip, at least a year before (because that’s the only time she could get vacation time off, and I’m pretty much flexible). Then we reeled in Peach. Wisest decision ever, because She and I couldn’t have spent a lot of time on the planning – one of the pitfalls of working in finance and accounting. Peach just asked for inputs, then she drew up the itinerary, looked for places to stay… as I said, all the dirty, grunt work.)
After about an hour-long bus ride from Incheon, we finally arrived at Myeongdong, and before heading to our hostel, Myeongdong Guest House, we had to grab something to eat first. The bus stop was right beside this heavenly bake shop, and I got the first Hallyu wave brush with Kim Soo-hyun (and this encounter will somehow set a recurring theme throughout the trip, at least for me).
Our first order of business: a DMZ Tour. The Korea DMZ, or the Demilitarized Zone, is the border barrier – basically a strip of land – between North and South Korea. Also touted as the most heavily militarized border in the world.
It was a very quick check in. We left our luggage at the hostel, made a quick change, then headed off to a waiting car, which transferred us to a mini-bus to bring us for our DMZ tour. Our DMZ tour group consisted of 3 bubbly Filipinas (that’ll be us), 4 French guys on their gap year, methinks (we called them F4), a young Swedish couple, an elderly American couple, 2 Australian guys, a lone Caucasian lady (who slept throughout the trip), and an interracial couple (a Korean lady with her black American boyf).
Meet our guide for this DMZ tour, Mr. Lee. or Lee Chun-ho.
By the way, we only took the half-day Korea DMZ tour. We would’ve wanted to go on a whole day tour, or check out the JSA, but… time constraints.
At the Tourist Information Center in Paju City, Mr. Lee had to secure tickets for the group, and so we were given 15 minutes to grab a quick bite or roam around while waiting for the bus that will take us around DMZ.
The Korean War Veterans Memorial, a “historical cenotaph honoring the proud history of the preservation of the free democratic values of the Republic of Korea. Brave soldiers from 16 countries around the world shed their precious blood fighting to defend Korea from the North Korean invasion on June 25th, 1950.” (text transcribed from metal plate on site)
Oh, lookie, an enlistee sighting! By now, some of you may already be familiar with the mandatory 2-year military service that all Korean males should serve. These guys are soooo young.
Dorasan Station, known as the Starting Point of the Transcontinental Railroad, and is expected to “play a decisive role in linking South and North Korea”. It is the “first station toward the North”, and when the Trans Korean Railway (TKR) extends to the Trans Siberian Railway (TSR) and the Trans Chinese Railway (TCR), South Korea promises to emerge as a distribution hub in Northeast Asia, and Dorasan Station as the gateway toward Eurasia in the near future”. (text transcribed from metal plate on site)
Such lofty goals. I only hope it comes true.
Inside the station we go.
Inside the station, you can also have your passport marked with the Dorasan station stamp, “as if” you took the train and headed to the North.
A souvenir item being sold inside the shop at Dorasan station.
We then proceeded to the next stop of this DMZ tour, which is an uphill climb toward the Dora Observatory.
We passed by facilities for the personnel working in the Korea DMZ.
On guard.
Finally, after a winding uphill climb on the bus, we arrive at the Dora Observatory. Perched atop Dorasan, or Mount Dora, it is where you can catch a glimpse of North Korea across the demilitarized zone.
Yes, you read that right. The writings say, “End of Separation, Beginning of Unification”. I wonder if it’ll eventually happen in this lifetime.
Unfortunately, we can only view. See the yellow line above? You cannot take photos beyond that part. So no chance of taking photos (I felt bad for those with SuperZoom cameras. Or not.) of the North.
We then proceeded to infiltrate the 3rd Tunnel. A number of tunnels have been discovered, all said to have been dug over the decades (!!) by the North, in order to invade Seoul and conquer all of South Korea. Only the 3rd tunnel was made open to tourists, and is one of the highlights of every DMZ tour.
First, there was a short film showing, which covered the history of the DMZ, what it was, and what it is now, and what it is hoped to be in the future. After that, we were directed to a museum of sorts, with relics and dioramas.
Cameras were also not allowed down in the tunnel. They made us leave all our stuff in secure lockers. But we were allowed to take photos at the entrance of the shaft. If you are claustrophobic, or you have weak knees, you might want to skip this one. Hard hats were a must, since the ceiling is uneven, and water is dripping in places. The three of us had no problems going into it, while the taller Westerners had to crouch, and repeatedly go OUCH as their head kept getting hit. Some even made noises about their envy of our “diminutive” sizes. Hah! The perks of being tiny.
After the tunnel infiltration, we were brought back to the Paju area for “check out”. More camwhoring before getting on the mini-bus that will take us back to Seoul.
The last pic was taken by Mr. Lee. Funny how the three of us were camwhoring away while the others in our group looked on, amused.
All throughout the tour, one cannot help but feel some tension in the atmosphere. This is a place that holds great political and historical significance, both in the past and the present, as well as the future. There’s a lot of pain and tragedy infused into this whole tour, as if you’re seeing two brothers being torn apart by circumstances that are seemingly above and beyond them. Stories shared by Mr. Lee about defections, betrayals, tunnel discoveries, what-if scenarios… well, they all made everything all too real. It happened, it is still happening, and lots will happen still. The week after this tour, tension heightened and there were even rumors of the North and South finally coming to blows. Phew.
The DMZ tour took pretty much the entire morning. We went back to the City, and had the van drop us off so we can check out Gyeongbokgung Palace. See you in the next post!
