Siem Reap ’14 pt 8: Pre Rup, Banteay Srei & East Mebon

From some readings and word-of-mouth, I kinda had an idea that Angkor covers quite a large area. After all, it wouldn’t be called the world’s largest archaeological monument for nothing, right? But it was still overwhelming when you’re there and realize the scale of it.

The Grand Tour (or Big Circuit Tour, as some would call it) began with us heading for Banteay Srei. Before that, however, we passed by Pre Rup, or pronounced more often as “Pre Rub”.

We’ve been told that it’s going to be quite a long drive. But we didn’t mind. Apart from the fact that we loved the feel of the cool breeze (did I mention we went there on the hottest time of the year?) on our faces, we were also bombarded with amazing views.

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PRASAT PRE RUP

We finally come to Pre Rup Temple, or Prasat Pre Rub, a temple mountain made from a mix of laterite, brick and sandstone, characterized by imposing brick towers. We enter from the east.

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Pre Rup literally means ‘turning the body’, a phrase attributed to the act of turning the body of a corpse during cremation. This was made evident by the presence of a stone cistern on the eastern side of the second enclosure of this temple pyramid. In this shot, we were literally stepping on the edge of the cistern. There were no signs against stepping on it, but after taking the photos, some of the locals who were selling paintings and postcards told us to “get down from there!” *sheepish*

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The stairs leading up the three tiers of the pyramid was quite steep, but we figured we’d put these legs (which just saw major action the week before in a two-day hike) to use. In the photo above, you’ll see two small shrines on both sides on the second tier. And, of course, guardian lions still line the staircase.

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At the top, there are five towers, with four on the corners and one in the middle. The central tower sits on a two-tiered platform.

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According to some stuff I read, the lintels, doorways and colonettes of the towers are made of stone; the decoration over the brick, however, was originally in lime mortar. I wouldn’t know, though. I just know they look soooo purrrty.

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BANTEAY SREI

According to Awesome-Tuktuk-Driver Sarat. Banteay Srei is 30 km away from the town proper. Quick mental calculations had us thinking it’s going to take as long as a trip from Baguio to Km. 30 in Atok. And we dreaded the long ride.

We later realized that the roads leading to Km. 30 and the roads leading to Banteay Srei are WORLDS APART. No zigzags, no fear of falling rocks, no overhanging cliffs, no slippery slopes…. You get the picture.

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Banteay Srei had that feeling of isolation, but it also had that sense of aloofness or haughtiness from being set or located so far from the others. It even had its own grand reception area!IMG_1656

The original Sanskrit name of this place, “Isvarapura”, meant the “city of Shiva”. Its contemporary name, Banteay Srei, however, means the “city of women”. The welcome sign says that “Banteay Srei is one of the jewels of Khmer art due to the outstanding quality of its sculpted decor, carved from red sandstone.” Other sources say it is pink. Let the photos help you decide whether it is pink or red. Or orange.

It was quite a long walk from the reception area to the temple itself.

Pic by Richard.
Pic by Richard.

The temple is a one-story complex. No terraces or tiers here. Just an isolated temple in the middle of the woods.

Gopura III, the main entrance to the temple.
Gopura III, the main entrance to the temple.
Mythological narratives are on carved on pediments and lintels. These are on the gopura.
Mythological narratives are on carved on pediments and lintels. These are on the gopura.

We passed by long galleries on the outer enclosure before arriving at a causeway that passes through a moat.

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Writings on the wall.
Writings on the wall.

By the way, this causeway is supposedly lined with 32 boundary posts. No, we didn’t count, but we’ll take the word of the experts for it.

Pic by Richard.
Pic by Richard.

Here we pause for a moment to… take more photos. Check out the reflection of the innermost enclosure on the water.

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From here you can see a glimpse of three sanctuary towers at the central shrine, with the middle tower being the tallest.

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Now it’s time to enter the third enclosure, or the innermost enclosure via the gopura II.

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This is the central sanctuary, which is dedicated to Shiva.

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The lintels and decorations are simply exquisite. I was amazed at the great attention to detail placed on them.

The east pediment of the North library.
The east pediment of the North library.
The pediment portrays the fire on the Khandava Forest.
The pediment portrays the fire on the Khandava Forest.

Now we come to Vishnu’s tower, where garuda guardians are seated. By the way, a garuda is a mythical bird-man, and the official mount/ride/vehicle of Vishnu.

Vishnu's tower in the central sanctuary.
Vishnu’s tower in the central sanctuary.
Garudas stand on guard.
Garudas stand on guard.
A fair warning for everyone.
A fair warning for everyone.
The west pediment of Gopura I.
The west pediment of Gopura I.
Closer. It shows the fight between Valin and Sugriva.
Closer. It shows the fight between Valin and Sugriva.

Here are a few more pediments with carvings.

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EAST MEBON

East Mebon is one of the three temples in the East Baray section of the Angkor Archaeological Park, and it follows the style of Pre Rup.

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This three-tiered temple dispenses with the need for causeways and enclosures. Just step up to get to the next tiers. This is one of the landing stages, and on the corners are elephants.

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It is characterized by lintels of the towers. This one, in particular, has five modest towers. One each on four corners, and one on the center.

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This place also has lintels of the towers, with narrative carvings.

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Check out the blind door, with colonettes and lintels.

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If you’re not paying enough attention, there is a danger of one temple looking just like the others. But each of these temples have their own distinct features that set them apart. I suppose you will also get a better appreciation for it if you have an interest for mythology, Hinduism, and the like. But even if you don’t, the mere fact that these temples/tombs were created by the hands of man is enough to make your jaw drop in amazement.

Watch out for my last temple-run post, featuring the last three temples we visited on this trip! See ya then!

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