The original plan was to skim through Siem Reap and Bangkok in one trip. In the end, we decided to stick to only one place, so we won’t be too harried catching trips and cramming too much in so little time. Plus, it’s also an excuse to plan a separate Bangkok trip in the future, God (and budget) willing.
OUR ITINERARY
Here’s a quick rundown of our itinerary in Siem Reap.
April 27 : 9pm, arrival, check-in, walked around Pub Street for late dinner
April 28:
8:30am – Ton Le Sap
1:00pm – Lunch at Neary Khmer Restaurant, walked around the Old Market, hung out at the bridge
4:30pm – Went to Angkor to buy tickets, proceeded to Phnom Bakheng for sunset viewing
6:30pm – Dinner at Amazon Angkor, followed by traditional Apsara show at 7:30
9:00pm – Traipsed along at the Night Markets
April 29:
5:00am – Angkor Wat for sunrise viewing
7:30am – Breakfast at Guesthouse
9:00am – Short Circuit Tour (Angkor Thom, Chao Say Tevoda, Ta Keo, Ta Prum, Banteay Kdei, Angkor Wat)
6:00pm – Dinner at Pub Street
April 30:
7:30am – Breakfast at Guesthouse
8:30am – Grand Circuit (Pre Rup, Banteay Srei, Eastern Mebon, Ta Som, Neak Peon, Preah Khan)
4:00pm – Back to hotel for rest
6:00pm – Pub Street for dinner, Night Market
May 1:
7:30am – Breakfast at Guesthouse, packing, rest
11:30am – Check out
12:00nn – To Pub Street for lunch, walking around the Old Market, last-minute shopping, hanging out at the bridge
5:00pm – Back to Guesthouse for showers
7:00pm – Dinner
8:00pm – Depart for the airport
OUR CULINARY ADVENTURES
Nope, we didn’t try it.
During this trip, we developed a new appreciation for the coconut, or the buko as we Filipinos so fondly called it. It is also – and I have to mention this – the most expensive fresh buko we’ve ever had. You see, normally, at home, we can have it for as low as USD0.50 (Php 20.00) and as much as USD0.75 (Php 35.00).
On our first dinner in Siem Reap, the restaurants were already closed at 11pm while we were walking around Pub Street. The only place we found open was a street cart that set up tables outside a convenience store. I was told by one of my companions that the “Lok Lak” is a must-try, and so I did. I wasn’t disappointed.
Lok Lak: Stir-fried marinated, cubed beef served with fresh red onions, served on a bed of lettuce, cucumbers, and tomatoes and dipped in a sauce consisting of lime juice,[7] sea salt and black Kampot pepper (tek merec).
I washed it down with Dragon Shake (or, to be more precise, Dragon Fruit Shake). On this trip, I somehow developed an inclination to try out shakes/smoothies that are not “common” back home.
The next day, we were brought to the Neary Khmer Restaurant for lunch. It’s a mid- to upscale restaurant, so the prices were a bit steep. Here, I tried their Lok Lak once again. Better presentation, but I have to say I liked the taste of the one I had the night before more. (Maybe it’s the bean counter in me making mental calculations the whole time). I, however, fell in love with the Cashew Nut Shake. YUM.
Of course, there was the traditional buffet dinner at Amazon Angkor, which I talked about here.
OUR ACCOMMODATION
We stayed at the Bou Savy Guest House – a decision I will never regret.
There are lots of hotels at Siem Reap; it is, after all, a tourist haven. The great thing, also, is that it has a lot of budget accommodations where you’ll spend a small amount of money and still get great service, as if you’re staying at a posh hotel! I looked through a list of places to stay that wouldn’t break the bank. Location was also a factor. We weren’t particular with how glam or swanky the place is. After all, we’ll be spending most of our days out, exploring. I was left with two choices: Ta Som and Bou Savy. I emailed both. Bou Savy replied almost immediately.
We booked two months in advance. I emailed them, and the owner, Bovorn, replied to confirm our booking and answer my queries. I was a bit nervous at first that my booking didn’t go through because they did not ask for any down payment. Just my name, the details of my flight, and the rooms needed. 15 days before our trip, I added another room, and they were (again) able to accommodate my request. I even asked when we were supposed to pay (because in the past, other hostels/B&Bs asked for 10% downpayment), but he said we can pay when we arrive or upon checkout. I used to do my bookings via Agoda and Hostelworld.com. I’m glad I went directly to the source and e-mailed them.
We arrived at Siem Reap at around 9pm, and we were met by two tuk-tuk drivers at the airport, who brought us to the Guest House, where we were welcomed with wet towels and refreshments. Then we were brought to our rooms, which I was highly satisfied with. The other room had issues with the A/C leaking, but other than that, there were no major issues. It was actually quite spacious. For USD18.00 a night, my friend Lorie and I stayed in a spacious room with two wide beds, with an A/C and a fan, a refrigerator, hairdryer, one bathroom with continuous running hot and cold water, and Wi-Fi! Woo-hoo!
We also get daily breakfast, and at the time, they were running a promo where guests who stay for four nights minimum will have one free dinner. We checked out at 12noon on May 1, but our flight isn’t until 9pm. So we checked out, but they gave us the use of one room to stash our things while we walked around town. Then they gave us towels and the use of one bath to take pre-trip showers. And that’s when we availed of our free dinner, which was – for us – a feast!
The staff were very nice. You know those places where it can get annoying when the cleaning staff is always underfoot? You’ll barely see them out and about cleaning, but you get back to the Guest House, and your room, and it’s clean! Those who serve our meals are also very accommodating. They are friendly and respectful without being too forward or pretentious. I like how personal space was maintained the whole time.
When we were there, they just broke ground and started construction of a swimming pool. For sure, more people will have a great time staying here once it’s done.
We also liked how they made it so that the drivers who met us when we arrived were our drivers all throughout the trip. Best of all, there were no hidden charges! You know those places where you request extra towels, extra this, extra that… and then when you check out, your bills mounted up? None of that here. We paid exactly the room rate that was posted on the website and emailed to us.
GETTING AROUND
Touring the city, and Angkor, can be done in several ways.
– Bicycle rental (USD 2.00 per day)
– Tuk Tuk, max 4 people (USD 12.00 per day around Angkor Complex)
– Car, max 4 people (USD 25.00 per day around Angkor Complex)
– Mini Van, max 14 people (USD 35.00 per day around Angkor Complex)
– Mini Bus, max 25 peopel (USD 60.00 per day around Angkor Complex)
There were 7 of us, and we weren’t keen on spending too much on transpo, so we opted for the tuk-tuk.
Getting to and from Pub Street can be done via tuk-tuk, where you’ll be charged USD2.00 per tuktuk, max of 4 people. Here’s the thing: we are from the boondocks. We’re no strangers to walking and hiking. Walking from the Guest House to Pub Street takes all of 10 minutes.
SHOPPING & PUB STREET
While waiting for the sun rise at Angkor Wat, I was seated next to a retired American guy and an Australian lady chatting. Then I heard the guy say, “Siem Reap is ridiculously expensive compared to Phnom Penh and other places”.
It didn’t take me long to realize there’s a truth to it.
The moment folks at home heard I’m headed to Cambodia, they immediately zeroed in on the shopping part. Apparently, stuff are cheaper here, even cheaper than in Bangkok. That is true, but it turns out that it is true IF you’re in Phnom Penh. Obviously, that’s not where we went.
The official currency is Cambodian riel; however, with the way US dollars are bandied around, you tend to forget about the riels. At the night market, even the hawkers and tuktuk drivers, will do business with you in dollars. 1 US dollar is equivalent to 4,000 riels (which is also Php45,00).
There are several Night Markets, so you can take your pick. They remain open until around 10pm. One word: HAGGLE. We notice how they jack up their prices, and then you have to haggle, even as much as 50% of the price. A colleague asked me to get a bag for her, and the original price was USD25. I had one of my travel buddies (because I TOTALLY SUCK at it) haggle until they gave it for USD13.
One funny thing: the sellers will INSTANTLY know that you are a Filipino once you start haggling. What does that say about us? HAHA! Maabilidad!
The Old Market is also a good place to get souvenirs. If you’re from the Philippines, and you’re familiar with a talipapa-style of a market, the setup will be familiar. On the sides are places to eat, and we had lunch there once or twice.
During the day, the town is not crowded. At all. Our theory: the people are staying in because going out during the day is much too hot, or they are all at the temples. At night, the place literally comes to life. Especially the famous Pub Street.
As the name implies, Pub Street has lots of pubs, restos… and massage areas. Yes. And we’re not just talking about indoor spas and your typical massage parlors. They are outdoors, too.
Walking around town during the day in May is asking for sunburn. It was soooooooooo hot. Good thing we also found spots to hang out where we could get some breeze.
And we also saw some kids taking a dip. We were tempted for a moment, but the color of the water dashed that quickly.
Final thoughts.
All in all, it was an epic trip. Thankfully, we did not exceed the budget that we set for this trip. YATTA! *fistpump* It was also surprisingly lower-budget than my previous trips. Maybe because we stuck to the itinerary that we set? (And yes, it is always a good thing when you are travelling with a fellow CPA. Bean-counting and mental calculations are a given.) Truth be told, my trip to Palawan cost a lot more than this trip to Cambodia. Heck, my accommodations in Palawan costs 250 pesos more per night than what I spend in Siem Reap.
Will I recommend for anyone to take this trip? DEFINITELY. Angkor is soooooo worth it.
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