Revisiting the Four Lakes of Kabayan, Pt 1: Tabeyo Lake, Incolos Lake + Jr. Pulag

I’ve recently gone back to reading actual, tangible books – you know, the one where you get to flip and fold actual paper instead of swiping or tapping a screen – and it made me feel like setting foot on something solid again. Admittedly, though, I am easing into it slowly, so the pace is not like before, when I practically devoured books. But it’s a start, and to be honest, I don’t think I’d want to go back to that manic reading pace I was on. I guess what I’m saying is that it is nice to go back to old habits, especially the ones that you know were really, really good for you. Or, at the very least, made you feel good. And while we’re at it, let me continue with the reminiscence as I give you a two-parter on my second visit to the Four Lakes in Kabayan a few months back.

It has been several years since I’ve done that rigorous hike to the Four Lakes, and it was one memorable hike (if hiking and slipping through pouring rain is not memorable, then I don’t know what is.) You can read all about that hike in this post.

As before, I also got to return to this place because I tagged along with my Mom on one of the activities of the committee she chairs in their annual festival. This time, however, the weather was so much better, which made me very glad, because it means I get to have another perspective, ergo experience, in the same place.

Lake Tabeyo, the Calm and Open One

Inarguably the most accessible of the four lakes, Lake Tabeyo (or Tabeyo Lake works, too) is the first one you’ll come across.

Hikers and climbers have probably heard of (and most likely even scaled) Mt. Tabayoc, one of the peaks in Kabayan that is fast becoming a favorite after its neighbor, the more famous Mt. Pulag, is going through some issues about and against climbing activities. The local government unit of Ballay, the barangay where these lakes and the mountain are located, apparently decided to regulate these activities, and one clear evidence was the Ballay Ranger Station set up on one side of Lake Tabeyo.

In fact, when we got there, there were several tents pitched beside the Lake, accommodating a group of hikers from Manila. They just descended from Mt. Tabayoc early that morning, having climbed it the day before.

There is Mt. Tabayoc behind me. From this distance, you can tell that it’s probably mostly mossy.

By the way, this area still seems to be part of the greater Mt. Pulag National Park.

(I only hope that this area does not arrive at the same predicament that the main area of the National Park is going through.)

Maybe it’s because the day was hot, as were the days prior, but I noticed the water of the lake was considerably lesser than what I remembered. I recalled the “shoreline” to be a bit closer to the road, but this time it was actually a bit further, which could be because of one of two things:

One: the water level of Lake Tabeyo declined, or

Two: the land rose, eating up the lake. Which may be possible, I’m pretty sure there’s a scientific explanation for that.

I’m not quite sure which reason I’d prefer.

This area served as the assembly point for our group and the local officials who welcomed us. We also got to meet the local women who will be our guides during our hike through the four lakes.

Since the group was mostly comprised of youngsters on an immersion activity, more than a few minutes were spent having their photos taken. After the short welcome program, photo time, and briefing, we all got on our respective vehicles, which took us on the short drive to the jump-off.

Hike Through Jr. Pulag

The route was the same as before. From Lake Tabeyo, the closest lake is certainly Bulalakaw Lake. However, we decided to make it the exit point, and start the hike to Junior Pulag instead, then work our way down.

The hike was just as I remembered. It was short, but it can get you winded in no time, especially if you’re out of shape or haven’t had any significant physical activity for a while.

The trail was pretty much the same, and I took great comfort in that. I think this was the first time in a couple of months that I got to be in a mountain, or somewhere close to it, and…. I think I was practically drooling.

The place got its name – Junior Pulag – because it looked like a miniature version of the actual Pulag, particularly with the flora. Specifically the dwarf bamboos dotting the area.

It did give off the feel of the grassland of Mt. Pulag. The unburnt and undamaged one, I mean.

From here, you can see several peaks from afar, Mt. Pulag one of them. On a good sunny day, you can definitely see its peak.

I think what I savored the most was the breeze. It was soooo clean and fresh, certainly none of the smoke-y one we constantly inhale in the big bad city.

And the sound of the wind whipping around you? It’s like music to my ears, one I’d pick over the sound of honking horns ANY. EFFIN. DAY.

Lake Incolos, The Hidden One

After our descent from Junior Pulag, it was another hike through brambles and underbrush to get to this wide open space, which looked deceptively like your average meadow…

….but was actually Lake Incolos itself.

 

Somehow the concept of a “Lake under the ground” is so unique that it is quite a bit difficult to grasp unless you’re actually standing there. The usual reaction of people when you tell them that they ARE standing ON the lake is this: “….HOW?”

It is difficult to understand at first. And then you stand there for a while, feel yourself sinking ever so slowly, then you feel the coldness of water seeping into your shoes, dampening your socks and soaking them through unless you move away.

THEN you will understand how it works.

One thing’s for sure, however: you can’t swim here.

You can try, though. Good luck with that.

When you intend to hike through the Four Lakes, you have to expect your shoes to get wet. Unless you wear rainboots, but I bet you’d find it difficult to hike with them on. (The local women guides used them like pros, though. Must be from daily hiking experience through this route.)

But again, I repeat: do NOT expect to finish the hike with dry socks and shoes. They will definitely get soaked before you even get halfway through Lake Incolos. So bring extra pairs of socks and footwear if you can.

Personally, the toughest part of this one would be navigating the sides of Lake Incolos so we can cross to the other side and resume our hike to the next lake. Well, you could probably just go YOLO and walk like you don’t care at all, but then you’d end up knee-deep in a bog or something. Then you’d need a change of clothes as well. You’ve been warned,

I’ll be continuing this in another post, so see ya then!

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