Osaka, Japan 2014: Sumiyoshi Taisha

This was probably the day that I did the most amount of walking during my Japan trip. Seriously. We set off at 6:30am, then went home later that night close to midnight. At the end of the day, my feet were literally killing me, and I was unconsciously apologizing to them (and, by extension, to my shoes) for putting them to so much abuse. But a happy explorer is happy, and that’s what counts most, eh? 

Sumiyoshi Taisha translates to Sumiyoshi Grand Shrine. It is one of the oldest Shinto shrines in Japan and decidedly the most famous in Osaka. It’s so old that it’s said to have been founded in 211, before Buddhist even arrived in Japan. Today, it is one of the most-visited shrines in Japan, especially during New Year’s Day.

There are supposedly over 2000 Sumiyoshi shrines all over Japan, but this one is the headquarters, hence the “Grand” attached to the name. It enshrines three kamis or Shinto gods that are known to protect voyages, vessels and seafarers. They are fondly referred to as the “Sumiyoshi sanjin” or the “Sumiyoshi okami“, namely: Sokotsutsu no Onomikoto, Nakatsutsu no Onomikoto, and Uwatsutsu no Onomikoto. The fourth deity that this Shrine is dedicated to is the Empress Jingu herself, or Okinagatarashihime no Mikoto.

Funny thing. When you walk from the station towards the direction of the Shrine, you wouldn’t think there is a shrine of great importance close by. It was just a little past 7am when we arrived, and we already noticed how there were several students going there early. I’d learn later on that this is also a shrine where students of the military arts go to for prayers. You’ll know you’re there once you spot the giant torii gate. Right past it are stone lanterns on both sides. This is said to be one of the symbol of the shrine. It is the Sorihashi or Taikobashi, an arched bridge over the pond in front of the shrine. You have to cross it to get to the Shrine itself, basically. The arch was quite high, so it felt more like walking up and down a flight of stairs, instead of crossing a bridge. The treads are quite narrow in some parts, too, so it could be quite slippery when it’s raining.

When you get to the other side, you’ll see spots for the washing of the hands and mouth, as is already expected in shrines and temples. And so we are ready to enter the main shrine. The shrine opens at 6am, and it is free to enter. So we just did. There were two or three already praying; there was an elderly guard walking around, and several other people cleaning up around the premises.

This is the view that will greet you the moment you pass through the main gate. The main shrine consists of four buildings (honden), all built to face the west, which happens to be the direction of the ocean. After all, this is dedicated to the gods protecting sailors and seafarers.

The one on the pic above is the first of the four buildings. Off to the side are structures where people can buy mikuji or omikuji, which are strips of paper indicating one’s fortune. For 200yen, one could randomly pick a strip of paper telling their fortune. There’s even a separate area for kodomomikuji (children’s mikuji). As you can see in the pic below, it was still unmanned. On one side, preparations are underway for the shrine. The gentlemen are wearing traditional clothes; I am guessing they are Shinto priests-in-training. In the future, they will be full-fledged Shinto priests, or kannushi. We were intrigued by this small setup they were working on. Then we noticed they were placing one of these on the side of each of the four hondens. This was on the side of the second building. I wished we knew what they were, haha! Sumiyoshi Taisha is known for its architecture. In fact, it is known to have been “designed in the oldest architectural style of construction of shrines”, which is called sumiyoshi-zukuri. Thus, it was declared to be one of Japan’s National Treasures.

The exterior of the structure was made of red lead and completed with gold metal fittings that are painted white and black. Again, notice the incorporation of chrysanthemum (the Imperial symbol of Japan).

Also, check out the tip of the roof of the honden. It has these forks, which are called okigichi – yet another sumiyoshi-zukuri unique feature. This is the fourth building. One notable feature of this old-style architecture is that the thatched roofs are straight, instead of curved or arched. We took one of the “alleys” to get to the rear area of the Shrine, and we basically followed some shrine staff to a place for godairiki. It’s an enclosed area filled with stones and pebbles. Some of the stones/pebbles have markings of “Go” (five), “Dai” (great), and “Riki” (power) on them. To get these amulets, one must find them among the stones.

These young men added more stones to the lot. Presumably to make the the amulets more elusive? Haha! I’m not sure if I understood what was written correctly, but I am assuming you ought to pay 300 yen for an amulet. Or for a shot to find one. Not sure. *shrugs* Some sections of the shrine had these red nobori or Japanese banners. They are a common sight, especially in walkways in Shinto and Buddhist shrines all over Japan. This small shrine caught my eye, mainly because of the guards. I was used to seeing lions and dragons standing guard, but dogs…? These dogs come in pairs, and they’re not your cute, cuddly best friend, too. They look quite fierce. Shinto belief has it that these dogs, when in pairs, would have one with its mouth open, while the other is closed. The one with the open mouth spits good luck, while the one with the closed mouth catches evil in its maws. There was one structure that was filled with lanterns. And some souvenirs. Say hi to this colorful (and cute, IMO) soldiers. The place was littered with smaller Shinto shrines (more like “altars”, if you ask me) so it was only expected that these washing areas are also found in several parts. I was really excited when I spotted some young ladies walking around, helping in the preparation for the day. They are mikos or female Shinto shrine attendants. Miko literally means “god’s child”. Their role includes performing sacred dances and rituals, cleaning the shrines, selling amulets, and assisting in various ceremonies in the shrine.

They looked sooo serene, walking with that regal air, uncaring even if there are several tourists milling about, taking pictures of them. When we walked back, the set up we saw earlier was completed. I wish I knew what it was for. My friend and I concluded there must be a special occasion later in the day. Anyone know? By the way, you must have noticed the fence surrounding the buildings. That is another trademark of the Sumiyoshi-zukuri architectural style.

We spent around an hour walking around in this area, and I don’t think we’ve seen its entirety. I would recommend this place for a visit to anyone who’s into this sort of thing. If you’re into soul-searching, early morning is the perfect time to do it.

As we were about to leave, rain poured. And I mean, really really poured. So we had to hang out for around 30 minutes at the gate of the Main Shrine, plotting our next destination. The rain let up and it was just a mild drizzle when we finally headed back to the station to go to our next stop: Shitennoji Temple. How we got there: From Momodani Station, we took the Osaka (Outer) Loop Line and got off at Tennoji Station. From there, we transferred to a JR train to Shinimamiya Station. Another transfer was made, this time we got on the Nankai Main line to Sumiyoshitaisha Station.

Travel time took around 25 minutes. The walk from the station to the Shrine itself took us less than 10 minutes.

Admission: FREE.