Some may say that every mountain is like all the others; climb one and you’ve climbed them all. Not so. From the few that I’ve gone to, each mountain has a story to tell, each experience stands out, and all the memories are a joy to go back to.
This weekend, November 8-9, 2014, is the Mt. Purgatory-Mangisi Traverse. This climb, so close on the heels of the Ambuklao Adventure 3 (which you can read about here and here), is part of the 114th celebration of the anniversary of the province of Benguet, thru Adivay (in the local dialect, it means “gathering” or “coming together”). Hence, the tagline “Pan-aadivay Tayo’d Kashontogan” which is Ibaloi for “our gathering/coming together in the (lit.) hills”.
As much as we’d love to go this weekend, we decided to give it a miss mainly due to packed schedules.
Last year, however, on October 18 to 20, 2013, my mates and I had the opportunity to be part of this activity. At the time, it was dubbed the 1st “1st Bokod Climb for Culture: Mt. Purgatory-Mangisi Traverse“. This was not the first time that the traverse was done but, if my memory serves me correctly (this was a year ago, mind you) this is the first that the local government of Bokod has coordinated.
Going on this 3-day adventure, we didn’t know what we were in for. There were 5 of us in our “faction”, and only two were able to do the climb before. They said that, since we’ve already experienced (and survived) the so-called “killer” Akiki Trail to Mt. Pulag, this would be “just like a walk in the park”.
Huh. We should’ve asked what sort of park it’s supposed to be.
(Disclaimer: Pix are mine, unless otherwise indicated in the captions.)
The participants assembled at the Regional Office of the Department of Tourism in Baguio City. There were around 3 jeepneys, so we knew it was going to be a large group. We dropped by Ambuklao along the way for breakfast and some photos.
At the jump-off point in Japas, Bobok-Bisal, we were joined by locals, medics/nurses and more guides, so yes, it WAS a big group.
See, one advantage of being in a large group is that you can stay behind (you know, because it’s more fun to take pictures that way) and not be pressured to “move forward, don’t stop because there’re people behind you and you’re holding up the line!”
From the jump-off point, there was a short hike (1 to 1.5 hours, tops) to Mt. Mangagew, also called Mangakew, the first campsite (and where briefing for hikers is held). It’s still part of Barangay Poblacion.
It was a relatively laidback afternoon, with all the participants – both visitors and locals – socializing and generally hanging out together. Mayor Mauricio Macay of Bokod was present to welcome everyone and lead in the festivities because, really, the whole thing felt like a feast!
The old man in the middle wearing the kuval (the bahag) traditional garb of men in Benguet was one of the porters. HE IS SOOOOO STRONG!
Participants who are not from Benguet were exposed to some of the key activities that are ingrained in the culture of Ibalois in Benguet, such as the owek (killing pigs using a sharp stick), how to make kiniing (smoked meat), separating rice grains from their husks using the bayuan and, subsequently, the bigao or bilao…
The locals-slash-guides were very friendly and accommodating, showing us how it’s done, then letting us do it, then trying to be discreet in their laughter when we end up failing in the most epic ways possible.
I didn’t try doing the taep, or flipping the bilao to get rid of the excess husk. (I don’t even know what words I’m using anymore. Bear with me.) I did, however, attempt to take turns at the bayu-an, or baju-an.
This is actually much harder than it looks. After a while, your arms will get tired. Those dumbbells at the gym has NOTHING on this.
I’m not posting any of the photos of the actual owek and slaughter of the pig to avoid offending others who may not be used to it. I am, however, showing the following: the traditional way of smoking meat.
I grew up with these activities since I saw them practiced by my grandparents when I was younger. Not so much now, though. I’m happy to see that the culture is not yet lost and is very much preserved in many other parts of Benguet.
The welcome program pretty much turned into a canao celebration, where the participants were encouraged to join in the tayaw, or the native dance of Benguet.
After a hearty meal, we all turned in for the night, ready to tackle the actual climb the next day.
It was such a fun afternoon, and definitely a great way to remind us of our roots, the rich culture of one of the tribes of Benguet, and how it endures even now.
By the way, we caught a small glimpse of where we’re headed the next day, and it’s shrouded with clouds. Uh-freaking-oh.
