I just realized this earlier: it’s almost the middle of the year. Da*n. Time sure flies so fast I’m getting a whiplash. And the soles of my feet are itching once again. I sure miss those few times I’ve experienced lying under the stars, al fresco, with just me and nature (and everyone else, but they hardly matter when you’re in the zone, right?). Considering the climate at the summit (or close to it) of Mt. Fuji, that’s not something that can be done. Unfortunately.
Fortunately, climbers have options.
Of course, they could choose to continue up to the summit and pass the night there, freezing their arses off while waiting for the day to break. Of course, they could bring their sleeping bags and similar gear to stay warm, but that would mean heavier load while climbing. I don’t think camping out is allowed, so bringing tents to pitch is also out of the question.
The other option would be any of the mountain huts along the trail, and if you’ve checked out my previous blog entry about our climb, you’d have spotted them as we went up. From the 7th Station onwards, there were several of these mountain huts or lodges.
By the way, the arrangements for our overnight stay were made by my travel buddy Rog, as I was too caught up in other things to look into it.
Home! For tonight, at least.
4:20 was touchdown time for us when we officially set foot on the stairs leading past the 8th Station Tomoekan, where we have made prior reservations.
Tomoekan had two mountain huts on the trail: the 7th Station Tomoekan and 8th Station Tomoekan. There are private room options, but only at the 7th Station Tomoekan.
We chose the 8th Station Tomoekan, because it is closer to the summit, which means we’d have a shorter hike to make at dawn the next morning.
But look at the view from the deck of the 8th Station Tomoekan. We’re literally above the clouds!
For reference, this is the English website of Tomoekan.
In case you’re wondering, mountain huts along the Yoshida Trail require reservations to be made beforehand, which is why their websites, which are mainly in Japanese, have English facilities for international visitors seeking to make these arrangements. As far as I know, walk-ins are not accepted, because the huts are almost always fully booked during climbing season.
I guess you can take your chances and NOT BOOK prior, but why risk that?
Besides, our reservations were made online, and they sent confirmations via e-mail. We didn’t have to pay anything until we actually arrived.
Up here, the temperature was dropping, and it’s currently at 9 degrees Celsius. The wind chill factor was upped by how strong the wind started whipping at us. I remember my fingers gradually growing numb as I removed my gloves.
But really, all that cold and all the exhaustion as we were climbing the trail just slipped away when you’re looking out over this view, and that’s just my honest opinion. Yes. *nods solemnly*
And it was such a sight to see, the fiery streaks of the sun setting in the West.
Oh and yeah, while we were standing out on the deck, we saw a continuous stream of climbers walking past, some of them probably booked in other mountain huts nearby, while some of them who were unable to make reservations were on their way to the top of the mountain to spend the night there. *shudders at the thought*
Irasshai~! says Tomoekan
The Tomoekan staff were all-male, at least so far as we’ve seen. And although they are not fluent in English, they were passable, which more than sufficed. Some of them, however, were conversant not only in English but also in Chinese, which is understandable as many of the other tourist climbers we spotted were Chinese.
We were greeted by a male staff member (the one standing in the pic below), who beckoned us inside and led us to a seat as we divested ourselves of our gear. He then asked for our reservation, which Rog promptly showed him, then we made our payment right there and then.
FYI, we paid 6,800 JPY each (which is roughly Php 3,220.00 or USD 61.75) and that covers our sleeping arrangements (they termed it “hotel fee”) and dinner. Upon reservation, you are made to choose what your dinner will be, and we went for “Curry rice”.
The place was quite hectic, with new arrivals streaming in, while those who have already arrived were getting settled in, with several of them already having their dinner on the long low tables right beside the entrance.
They gave us canvas bags where we were supposed to put our shoes, because we aren’t allowed to step on the dining area and into the lodge while wearing shoes.
Then, lugging our bags, we were led past rows of bunk beds covered with curtains and into our “hotel room”.
First impressions, the place was small, but definitely space-efficient. Which is quite possibly what most would expect from Japanese homes. I do understand how Western foreigners, with their larger-built bodies, would have trouble walking through the passages, but tiny Asian that we were, we had no such beef.
And it was clean, which gets an A+. I’m not picky about places to sleep in, but I’d definitely appreciate if it were clean and does not smell.
As you can see in the photo below, the bunk beds had two levels. We were assigned an upper level, which you’d have to climb by using those wooden ladders built into the sides of the bed. I noticed how the lower bunks were given to the more elderly climbers, and those with younger kids in tow.
Now, let’s take a look at our “hotel room”, shall we?
And by this, we mean our “sleeping bag space”.
You see, where I’m from, there is the concept of “bedspace”, which basically means renting a bed, and that’s it. In this case, the staff pointed to the last two rolled sleeping bags neatly folded in the corner and said those were the spots for the two of us.
So yes, our upper bunk has room for 8 people. So you’re basically going to sleep next to strangers. To their credit, the Tomoekan staff assigned all females in our bunk.
Now if you have trouble sleeping with strangers, especially those with “habits”, then the hut’s got you covered. They rent out sleep masks, eye covers, and even earplugs for those who don’t want to be bothered or kept awake by snorers.
Maybe I was just too tired, but I did not hear snorers in our corner of the hut.
Itadakimasu~!
When we were showed to our bunk, we were given a wooden tablet with number 10 engraved on it. They said that when our dinner is ready to be served, they will call our number, and we have to go to the dining area to eat.
And we have to do so when we are called, because after we are done, others will be called as well as it’s their turn.
And, this, here, my friends, is our Curry Rice. With piping hot Miso Soup.
Not exactly gourmet, but it’s flavorful, and it fills you right up!
I definitely prefer how the Japanese do their curry more than the eastern ones.
Since we planned on starting our climb at 2am the next morning, we knew we had to turn in early. So we stepped out for some last minute viewing of the dusk settling in, and also take care of any “business”.
By the way, the restrooms are free to those who are staying at the Tomoekan, but requires payment of 100-200 JPY from everyone else, I think depending on what business you’re supposed to take care of.
We turned in at 6pm, changed into the clothes we were to climb into the next morning, so we could just get up and go, then literally “climbed into bed”.
How was our sleep, you asked?
Even while inside, it was still quite cold, so imagine how it must have been for those who went on up and weren’t able to make reservations. *chills*
Personally, I would suggest booking at a mountain hut, if at least to experience it. Sure, it may be on the pricey side, but hey… comfort and convenience. And the experience.
Also, as I mentioned before, since we saved on the fees for tour guides and professional tour agencies, we thought we’d splurge on our comfort for the night.
Throughout the night, I found myself reaching for my phone to check out the time, and repeatedly wondered why it was moving so slow. That’s usually me when I’m excited about what’s coming.
…and that’s what I’ll talk about in my next post. See ya then!
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