This is yet another tl;dr, image-heavy post, which I’m not really gonna apologize for because, really, if I don’t have the photos, then I won’t really have much to say, now, do I? This blog post is all about… walking. Yes, walking. Because if you don’t know me by now, I really, really, really like to walk. A fact that drew the ire of one or two of my companions from time to time. #sorryNOTsorry So, yes, this’ll be all about that time my friend and I practically walked almost the entire length of the road from Nishiki Market, across Kawaramachi to Pontocho Alley, then across the Kamogawa to get to Gion District, until finally we ended up in front of the Yasaka Shrine. Yes. All on foot.
It’s crazy, I know, but TWAS FUNNNNNN.
Actually, this is not my first time to Nishiki Market. I and my travel-buddy-that-time Peach swung by the shopping district on my first trip to Japan some years back, but it was all a bit of a blur, to be honest. I only remember the rows and rows of stores, most of which were already closed or are already closing, because we got there quite late and WHO KNEW THEY CLOSE SHOP LATE, HUH.
Yes, so basically, the Nishiki Market closes at 6pm, bar a few stores that remain open probably until 7 or 8. So we didn’t really get to have a feel of the place much that time.
I do remember, however, feeling a bit heady and overwhelmed… and a little bit lost, as we (poorly) navigated the alleys and streets. But the familiar Teramachi-dori (or Teramachi Street) was still there, which gave me some small comfort because, at least, everything from back then was not a complete blur.
Nishiki Market is a bit of an “inner” district. The whole area is basically a shopping district, with Nishiki Market smack dab in the middle of it. Anyway, you’ll know when you are finally in the “market” area.
Nishiki Market, Kyoto’s Kitchen
What started off originally as a marketplace for traditional Japanese wares is now touted as “Kyoto’s Kitchen”, selling not only these wares but also one of the widest variety of foods that Japan – especially Kyoto – is known for. And can you believe this place has been thriving for a good 400 years already?
The entire market covers five blocks of a long shopping street, which means you’d be spoiled for choices, because there are literally hundreds of retails shops and stores for your senses to feast on (and your wallets to bleed on).
This time, we were smarter to be there way before closing time, although it was already close to 5pm when we got there. But almost all of the shops are still open, and there is a sizable crowd of locals and tourists alike.
What I noticed about this setup is how there are only a few that go for the “general merchandise” or “we sell everything” concept. Each store specializes in one product or product line; which kinda ups the guarantee that you’re getting quality.
There are several places like these, selling purely pickled products. Practically any kinds of fruit or vegetable is pickled, it seems, and there are even places that allow customers to have a free taste of their goods. Some stores have English translations of the product names/tags; others don’t. But most of the shopkeepers are more than friendly enough to explain to you – broken English notwithstanding – what they are selling.
Sakana Kushi or fish sticks are also popular, with fresh fish on sticks or skewers for around JPY200 each, depending on the type of seafood. Clearly, the Japanese have a thing for fresh seafood, since they actually even eat them raw. Which explains the abundance of stores in the market selling a wide variety of seafoods, most of which I have never even seen in my life.
And judging from some of the price tags, they do not come cheap.
Aside from fresh produce, you can also get some food items here that are already pre-packed, if you want to buy some to bring home with you. Some Japanese pickled products, for example, have already been packed and vacuum-sealed so they can last for a while until you got home.
Again, I saw some places selling bonito flakes, or katsuobushi, which are actually dried, fermented wisps or skipjack tuna that the Japanese often use as an addition to a wide variety of dishes if they want to emphasize the fish flavor of the recipe.
I did purchase and brought home some bonito flakes during my first time. I didn’t get any this time, because we still have more than a week left in Japan, and I didn’t want to carry these around. Never mind that they actually weigh next to nothing.
Can we talk about the stores themselves for a bit? Yes, this is a market, and yes there are parts that are typical of a “wet” and “dirty” market but, all in all, Nishiki Market is a feast for the eyes as well. Many stores took extra care in their exterior and interior decor to match their business or their brand, and many times I saw myself being drawn towards one shop simply because it looks soooo pretty.
Never mind that I don’t exactly know what they are selling, haha!
Snoopy Cha-ya is one store that seems popular in the area, no doubt it’s a hit among kids, especially among Snoopy fans. From the outside it looks like a typical confectionery store, but go in, and it’s actually a cafe. Yes, a Snoopy-themed cafe.
We were quite full already, so we didn’t go in to try it out. And not really much of a Snoopy fan. But hey, the place looks cute!
And of course, we can’t skip the places that sell Japanese sweets. Confectionery stores seem to be everywhere in the market, so if you’re hankering for some, then you can take your pick from the rows of stores that sell some of the widest variety of sweets I’ve seen in my life.
Oh, and yes, they are even packaged really nicely for those who want to bring some home as gifts. Those mochis… they really worked hard to tempt me!
Sawawa is a popular store in Nishiki Market for those seeking sweets, particularly some green tea sweets. One popular bestseller is the matcha warabi mochi, which is described as “powdered green tea bracken rice cake”. At close to 6pm, most are already sold out. They also sell green tea daifuku, basically mochi with green tea and fresh cream inside. Oh, and some matcha soft serve ice cream…
Matcha everything, I swear. I don’t know how I resisted the temptation. Oh, maybe because I was still full?
When it comes to takoyaki, it would appear that Osaka is the “authority”. But that does not mean other places in Japan do not have their version. Kyoto has its own take on takoyaki, and you can find some here in Nishiki Market. You can get takoyaki, Kyoto-style, at Karikari Hakase.
It was a stroke of luck that we came across this place. My friend Rog was hankering to try some street food while we were there, and so we were on the lookout for something we want to try. And then we saw quite a queue that snaked around one block. We peeked, saw the line was for takoyaki, and decided to see what the fuss was about.
It turns out to be Karikari Hakase’s takoyaki. Apparently, this shop uses Kyoto’s local spring onion called “Kujonegi”, and that is what gives it the distinct Kyoto flavor. Now I’m not an expert in takoyaki, but I liked how it tastes, especially the strong onion flavor.
And looooooots of cheese.
These kinda-freaky looking things are tako tamago. What is tako tamago, you ask? It is actually a baby octopus, and that round thing ain’t its head, but a quail egg. Apparently, it tastes both salty and sweet.
Now I wonder why we didn’t try it that time. I think Rog thought it tasted the same as the octopus she tried when we went to Arashiyama… but that time we did not realize those were actually quail eggs. Had she known, I’d bet my right arm she’d have tried this one as well.
We finally got to try freshly cooked senbei, or rice crackers made hot and fresh, of various flavors. I’ve tried senbei before, but the pre-packed one, the one you buy from DonKi or some other Asian grocery store. These one are quite hot, fresh from the oven (or whatever they are cooked in), and they come in a wiiiiide variety of flavors.
I forgot all the flavors that we bought, but I do remember liking the “black sesame” one, and some other spicy flavor. Ugh, my memory’s deteriorating with age, it seems.
And fish cakes! Hot and steaming… and with a wide selection to choose from! Very filling, if I remember correctly, although Rog only bought one type and I just had a couple of bites.
Yes, looking at the price, too, it’s a bit steep. But that’s on the assumption that they use the real thing for the flavors, and not artificial ones. I gotta say, though, I remember that it did not taste flour-y at all, which means it’s probably authentic fish cakes.
Having been around for more than 400 years means that Nishiki Market is an actual historical site, so it comes as no surprise that you’d stumble on a shrine while in the middle of wandering around the market and shopping area. Yes, it is the Nishiki Tenmangu Shrine, a small Shinto shrine dedicated to Tenjin, considered to be the deity or god that watches over Kyoto’s kitchen.
By the way, Tenjin is also known as the “god of scholarship”, which is why it is here that many students flock to pray especially during exam season.
You can’t miss it, really, because you’d easily spot the entrance, which is well-adorned with large Japanese lanterns. Inside the small area is a natural spring, statues of stone cows (said to be Tenjin’s divine messengers), some Japanese plum trees, and the actual shrine dedicated to the deity.
Walking back out of Nishiki Market, we still passed by a lot of stores that sell this and that. This store in particular drew us in because I saw “sakura tea”, and I became curious. The lady inside the store beckoned us inside and served us some small tea cups of the various tea flavors inside.
Needless to say, when we stepped out around 20 minutes later, we had purchased some sakura tea leaves, and several other teas. She was very convincing. And the free tastes definitely helped.
Pontocho Alley
Finding Pontocho Alley was a bit more challenging because I haven’t been there yet. Google Maps helped, though, and also our decision to just… keep walking, because we’ll find it eventually.
When we arrived at the intersection of Shijo-dori and Kiyamachi-dori, we peered ahead and saw a bridge. Which I assumed meant that we are close to the River, which is right before the Pontocho Alley. So we just kept walking.
If we weren’t paying attention, we’d probably have missed it. But there it was. An obscure wooden marker on the side of what looked like a nondescript alley.
I did read somewhere that the place comes to life at night. It was only a bit past 6 that time, so it was still light.
Many write-ups I’ve read about Pontocho Alley describes it as one of the “more atmospheric” areas to dine in Kyoto. It does have its own unique atmosphere, all right, tee-hee.
The entire quarter is said to measure 600 meters long and 50 meters wide. And yes, it is an alley, a long one, that stretches along the Kamogawa, or Kamo River, adding to that “atmospheric feel” of the place.
Originally, the houses built along the embankment of the river were residential. It wasn’t until around 1712 that the houses have been turned into inns and tea houses, which made this street or alley prosper commercially.
If you see this alley, with that wooden marker, and those lanterns above the archway, then you’ve come to the right place.
As we walked further in, we realized what the “alley” in Pontocho Alley meant. Because it seemed to get narrower and narrower as we moved along. In some parts, there was barely enough room for two rows of people walking, you’d have to squeeze yourself to the side just to let the other people pass by.
But that is part of the charm of this alley, which retains much of the old era architecture of its heyday. Of course, many parts have also become more modernized and present-day, but the fusion with the old still harks you back to an era long gone but definitely never to be forgotten in this part of the country.
You can get a glimpse of the Kamogawa every once in a while, with some of the restaurants built with what served as view decks, giving you a view of the river and the embankment. In fact, some restaurants provide dining al fresco, with a view of the river. Which can be romantic, I guess, especially when night sets in and the entire stretch of the embankment is all lit up.
And then if you just keep walking, about more than halfway through the entire length of the Alley, you’d get to the Pontocho Park, which is quite small, really, that it’s easy to dismiss its status as a park, haha! There were a couple of buskers there, claiming their spots and playing music for anyone who care to listen.
And they weren’t kidding when they said Pontocho Alley is a culinary center, because practically all the establishments are restaurants or dining places.
And the selection is nothing to scoff at, either. From western cuisine to various Asian culinary offerings (kebab, anyone? They got them here!), you’d definitely find them here. Of course, traditional Japanese cuisine is a given, but if you’re up for some Chinese, or even Mediterranean fare, just walk around and you’re bound to stumble upon your gastronomic desire.
Here’s the thing, though: they aren’t exactly cheap.
From what we’ve seen, except for a handful of shops that are in mid-range (price-wise), most are in the high price range. And I am talking only about those places with their menus and price list readily available by the door. Some places have menus, all right, but there are no prices on them, WHICH ALREADY RINGS WARNING BELLS YA NOE.
And then there are those that are obviously so expensive that even their doorways scream “exclusive”. Plus there is the fact that many of these places have service charge for each customer, meaning you haven’t even ordered a thing, but you already have a running tab.
Oh, and you gotta be careful when checking out the price list of the menus, because they are not yet inclusive of tax. So there’s that, too.
Needless to say, we walked the entire length of the Alley, and went back the same way, only to decide not to eat there. First, because the price is just too much for us, haha! There was also a group of three gentlemen – 2 Chinese and a Canadian – that were walking slightly ahead of us, and even they were going, “nah, too expensive”.
The couple of places we thought were manageable were quite packed when we walked back, so we just kinda lost interest. It’d be interesting, though, to try dining there. Perhaps in the future, some time.
To Gion we go
Exiting Pontocho Alley, we arrived at the main Shijo Dori to find the evening brought the place to (night) life. We crossed the bridge, which gave us a glimpse of the other side of Pontocho, and the many people just chilling on the embankment of Kamogawa.
To their credit, Kamogawa seems like a well-maintained river, in the sense that it does not have that “stink” you’d associate with a body of water that is generally static or does not flow. Or maybe that’s just my prejudice brought about by exposure to such rivers. *sigh*
Again there was a faint sense of familiarity when we crossed the bridge and walked along the main road, past the line of shops and stores that I remember browsing back when I first set foot in this part of town some years back. And when we arrived at the Hanamikoji Dori, I thought it a pleasant surprise that it seemed to be exactly the same when I first came here.
The Hanamikoji Dori is a historic shopping district and also a renowned geisha district in Kyoto. If your main purpose in coming to this area is the Gion corner, or the geisha corner, go to Hanamikoji Dori.
FYI, Pontocho Alley is also known to be a place where you can spot some geisha, but it is public knowledge that Gion is the most famous geisha and maiko district in Kyoto. Unlike my first visit, however, I failed to spot a geisha on her way to work at one of the restaurants and teahouses in the district. I think it is because we were there already too late.
The shops, tea houses (or ochaya), and restaurants in this district are “housed” in structures that are decidedly quaint and reminiscent of old Kyoto. Not surprising, though, because most of these buildings are from that time, just renovated and maintained to keep that look intact.
In fact, most of the structures are noticeably similar in that they are machiya, or traditional wooden townhouses usually owned by merchants, and are often associated with Kyoto.
You can get a full-course Japanese meal in any of the establishments in this district, and even experience being served by a genuine geisha. Of course, you have to expect to pay quite a sum here, not going below 6,000 JPY, and I think that’s the cheapest we spotted on the more “transparent” menus.
BUt hey, if you are up for the experience and don’t mind spending, then DO, YOU.
From Hanamikoji Dori, we just followed the sidewalk and walked to the very end of the street, to the front of the Yasaka Shrine, which was all lit up.
Yasaka Shrine will always be in my memory, for that morning when I spent walking around the Shrine and its surrounding areas wearing a kimono. Haha. You can check out my visit to the Yasaka Shrine in this blog post.
Ichiran Kyoto Kawaramachi
Ichiran Ramen is a renowned ramen franchise in Japan, with a long history that started way back in 1960 with its first branch in Fukuoka. It grew and grew into the giant chain it is today, and was even dubbed by Forbes to serve the best ramen in the world. Even my friends in Japan claim it to be the best ramen, so I decided that I should try it. And the opportunity to do so came up when we were in Kyoto, and I found out (thank you, Google Maps) that there is an Ichiran branch close to the Nishiki Market.
Ichiran Ramen specializes in serving tonkotsu ramen, and the brand has even branched out into selling pre-packaged tonkotsu ramen. I’m guilty of purchasing one box that I brought home with me to the Philippines…. and now I am salivating remembering how it tasted.
Apparently, Ichiran Ramen outlets all over Japan are so popular, it is a given that there should be a queue outside.
Before the food, Ichiran offers a unique dining experience. First, while queuing, a staff will give you an order sheet to fill up, so you can be faster when you place your orders at a touch-screen computer terminal. It’s pretty straightforward when you key in your orders into the system.
Then you’ll get a number, and probably end up in another queue inside. While waiting, we got to have a peek at the three “dining rooms”. There is even a small frame on the wall with light indicators when a “table” is empty.
When a spot opened up, we were called in and shown into our seats. My friend and I were seated side by side, but our tables were separated by a “wall”, kinda like what you’d find in study rooms or libraries.
You know how it may be awkward to be eating alone at a restaurant? Well, that is not a problem in Ichiran, because it utilizes a “solo” dining experience, with each diner provided his/her own “cubicle”.
In front of me was what looked like a tatami curtain, drawn up. On the other side, I can hear sounds of staff members busily serving and calling out orders. Then someone (they don’t show their faces) placed a bowl with egg on it, and I waited for my ramen to be served.
While waiting, it was fun to explore the table. With its wet wipes, water and tea dispenser, and even some “reading material” right on the wall.
Finally, my heaping, steaming bowl of tonkotsu ramen came.
And they weren’t lying.
It’s the best ramen I’ve had in my life.
Granted, I haven’t had that many, but this is the best one I’ve had so far.
And since then, all the others I had paled in comparison.
By the way, we got the regular ramen, which costs 890 JPY, and just ordered an additional egg.
Under normal circumstances, I would have had a hard time finishing this huge bowl. Because it’s just so huge!
But maybe it was because I was tired walking around all day. Or maybe because it was just so dang good, but I polished the entire bowl in no time. *pats tummy*
I apologize for this very long entry. BUt dannnnnng, revisiting this time makes me want to go back to Japan…. and have another round at another Ichiran Ramen place. Because nothing just compares to it.
Meanwhile, I leave you with some words of wisdom from a storefront somewhere in Nishiki Shopping District. Thank you for reading, and see ya next time!
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