There is something about “old towns” that never fails to touch something within me. Regardless of the comforts and conveniences that I have grown accustomed to in a “digital” setting, there is something… comforting, when you go to places that evoke the past. I suppose because almost everything seems to have become so modern that they are, well, flitting, these “old towns” are those last hints that there used to something in the distant past that has somehow endured to this day.
Granted, modern touches can be seen here and there, but there’s still that vibe of “what you see here today used to be here in the past, and there’s a very high chance that it will still be here in the future, even long after you have passed on.”
….Am I making sense to you right now?
Aside from the temples and shrines, perhaps the “heart” of sightseeing in Kawagoe would be the Old Storehouse Zone, or the Warehouse District or, as they properly call it, Kurazukuri no Machinami.
For purposes of this discussion (and simplicity), let’s just call it Kurazukuri.
Some call it Kurazukuri Street, which I think is limiting, since it’s not just a single street, really, but a maze of streets and alleys, so maybe Kurazukuri District makes more sense. The map we got from the Koedo Bus Loop, however, tagged it as Kurazukuri Zone.
Basically, once you get off the bus, you will find yourself in the middle of a wide street lined with buildings reminiscent of warehouses or storehouses during the Edo period, which was between the years 1603 and 1867.
Welcome to Kurazukuri
Again, I am no architecture expert, so I can only go by what the authorities say. But I don’t think you’d need a trained eye to tell the difference between modern architecture and… the not-so-modern type.
Based on what I’ve seen in period movies and television shows, these storehouses do look like they came straight from that era in the past. Beautifully preserved and unmistakably thriving with business to this day, they are what gives character to what would have looked like any other ordinary street.
The name kurazukuri refers to the Japanese style of architecture of buildings with earthen walls, usually in locations close to damp areas. In this case, as mentioned, Kawagoe was close to a river.
There is so much to see that, at first glance, it’s easy to feel overwhelmed. The main street alone was quite lengthy, and there are stores on both sides. The entire district is estimated to have an area of around 400 square meters, with the main street cutting right in the middle.
Points of interest in the Kurazukuri zone include the Time Bell Tower, the Kurazukuri Museum, the Kawagoe Festival Museum, the Osawa House and the Kashiya Yochoko. Unfortunately, I couldn’t say we were able to check all of them out, but we did get to get a glimpse of the main ones.
Checking out the storefronts was quite the adventure, with so many things to see. The little details jump out at you, if you’re mindful enough to spot them. These lazing pigs welcoming guests inside a small restaurant were so adorable, dontcha think?
And these dog figurines…. made of charcoal. Yep, charcoal. Only, I think it’s not the charcoal I am familiar with, but a harder, denser version, the type that you can mold and sculpt without it breaking.
I was tempted to buy one. Or two. But again remembered how I’d have to bring it around with me when we move from place to place later (which is kind of a joke when I tell you what I later had to lug around with me through three cities harhar).
The Toki no Kane
The Time Bell Tower, or Toki no Kane, is one of the more visited areas in the Kurazukuri Zone. In fact, it is said to be a landmark and THE symbol of Kurazukuri.
It’s not actually hard to find, because it’s close to the main street, and is visible when you look up. I saw some refer to it as simply the “Bell Tower”.
Looking at it, it looks relatively new. Yet another proof at how well the restoration work was done, because this Bell Tower was built in 1894. Technically, it was REBUILT, because the original tower was burnt and destroyed the year before, in 2893.
The Bell Tower is not just there for show, because the bell actually rings four times a day, at set times. First at 6 am, then at 12 noon and 3 in the afternoon, then at 6pm later in the day.
It is easy to get lost and confused in the side streets and alleys, but if you just keep walking you’ll find yourself back on the main street, and you’d be back on track.
No vehicles are allowed on the side streets; only on the main street. But I think bicycles are allowed.
This is another recent crowd drawer: the Kawagoe Starbucks.
Why a crowd drawer, you ask? Because it was built in a style that follows the Kurazukuri theme, to put it lightly. I’ll be talking about this Starbucks store in more detail in an upcoming blog post.
A feast for the senses
You’d have noticed in the photos how some of the people walking around are in yukata or traditional garb. This sight is no longer new in many sightseeing spots in Japan, not just in temples and shrines. In fact, I even spotted them in subways in Tokyo. (Again, a shoutout to that time I went around Yasaka Shrine in Kyoto wearing a kimono.)
You’ll find more of them in old towns, and Kurazukuri fits the bill perfectly.
In case you’re wondering, these yukatas are either owned by the ones wearing them, or they are rented. And don’t worry if you came to Kawagoe without one, because many of the stores are actually renting them out. At varied prices, as we later realized while walking past these stores. I suppose it depends on the design and quality, mainly?
Oh, and the store owners’ pricing strategy, of course.
We just wandered around aimlessly, not really consulting any map, or a clear direction where to go, and even reached what looked like a residential area at some point. So many “instagrammable” spots, too, especially in corners. I even spotted some ladies having their OOTD photos taken.
Presenting some kitties (ok, they’re not exactly kitties coz they’re already huge and obviously adults) we spotted roosting in a shaded area on one of the furthest corners of one side street we took. I think they were also “suffering” from the heat but, lucky for them, they had the perfect spot to rest and get some cool breeze going under a shade.
I love how they remained unbothered while we were moving around and practically shoving our phones and cameras on their faces. Or noses.
Well, except for one that was glaring at us. Or looked like it.
Stores selling shaved ice or some other form of icy refreshments were quite a hit, even their outdoor seating were occupied. There was literally a waterfall down my back the whole time we were strolling around, I kid you not.
Imagine waking up to this every morning.
No, imagine living in this charming neighborhood.
The Penny Candy Lane
Kashiya Yochoko is another crowd drawer. This Penny Candy Lane, or simply Candy Lane, is exactly what the name implies. It’s a lane of stores (around 20 or so) selling candies, sweets and various sorts of confectionery, to please your sweet tooth and sweets-loving hearts.
So you see traditional candies, mini-cakes, sundaes, sherbets, and colorful sweets, so colorful I swear I almost felt my teeth rotting, and I haven’t even eaten a single one!
So you’re looking at buildings that looked like stores or houses from the past, and once you enter they actually sell these sweet treats.
We settled for some sweet potato sticks, and we even bought them to take home with us (and by ‘home’ I meant our accommodation back in Tokyo, haha!) and not eat while we were still there. We were also still full from the hearty lunch of unagi and equally heavy dessert of sweet potato parfait earlier, so there just wasn’t any room for some street food, no matter how inviting they looked.
You might not notice it, but you’ve probably ended up walking from end to end of the main street. Personally, I’m not sure we did, but I do know we did quite some walking that afternoon around Kurazukuri.
Look how pretty these structures are. I don’t have any special inclination for building or architecture, but I definitely felt great appreciation for what I was seeing. Imagine running a business inside a building such as this. I’d definitely look forward to going to work every morning.
And then, you look the other way and find buildings with modern or some other type of architecture that is not kurazukuri. I couldn’t help but feel like I was caught somewhere between the future and the past. Which, in a way, you are, when you’re in Kawagoe.
A day is probably not enough if you want to go around all the key spots in Kawagoe. Well, a day is probably going to be enough if you’d just breeze through them, without spending some time to take it all in.
But I was happy with what we were able to accomplish that day in Kawagoe. If it weren’t too hot, we’d have probably covered more ground, but it definitely got better while we were in the Kurazukuri Zone. If, perhaps, next time I am able to go back to Kawagoe, I’d make sure to leave some room in my stomach to try out the treats on the street,
And speaking of treats, that’s what I’d be talking about in my next post. See ya then!
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