History was my favorite subject sometime around the middle of high school to my first year in college. Except for the part that required memorization of dates and lengthy names, it was like reading a storybook, with protagonists, antagonists, and tangled plotlines and twists.
Trips to Corregidor are offered by several accredited agencies, most notable of which, I think, is Sun Cruises. Normally, you’d board a ferry from a dock in Manila Bay.
But that option is, not surprisingly, the pricier option. And that’s just not how we roll. We’re on a budget, see. Haha!
What we did was go for a more affordable option, via Barangay Cabcaben in Mariveles, Bataan. We had a pre-arranged ride using a motorized banca leaving from the port of the Maritime Academy of Asia and the Pacific, or MAAP Port, in short. (I’ll be leaving the boat rates at the end of this post.)
After around five hours’ drive from Baguio City, we arrived at MAAP Port half past 7am. Made some last-minute preparations for our half-day tour in the island of Corregidor, then boarded the motor banca and set off at 8am.
By the way, once you arrive at the island and get registered, you’d be given stickers as a form of identification, in a way.
As if was quite early in the morning, the water was calm, so the boat ride was generally smooth and uneventful. And it didn’t take long, either, because after less than 30 minutes, we docked on Corregidor Island.
All guests are required to check in at their office, where arrangements and payment for the tour and tour guide were made. There were already several historical items at the welcome center to check out, and you can have a picture of how your tour will go.
At 8:45, we met our tour guide (I forgot his name, which is sad, because he’s one funny and talkative guy, and made the “history lesson” fun) and boarded the mini-bus, which accommodated all 16 of us. Well, I call it a mini-bus, but they call it a coach, which was
It turns out that we were the first guests of the island that day, and they were expecting more guests sailing in from Manila Bay (CCP, specifically) later. So yay for having the place to ourselves for that time.
The name “Corregidor” was derived from the Spanish word “corregir“, which means to “correct”, or to check, since the island served as a checkpoint where ships and other watercrafts had to have their documents checked prior to entering the nation’s capital, Manila.
The name “to correct” got another meaning when, later on, the island became the site for correctional and penitentiary facilities (aka prison). It sure gave a new light to the name Island of Corrections or Isla de Corregidor.
The entire island is not huge, but it ain’t small, either. I’d say if you want to explore it in its entirety and get a clearer picture of its role in the history of the Philippines, you’d most likely need at least a couple of days to cover its three parts: Topside, Middleside, and Bottomside. The Corregidor Hotel is actually open for business for those who want to stay overnight, by the way.
But we booked for only a half-day tour so it was a speedy visit to cover the basics.
You won’t miss these large guns and artillery situated here and there. These were facing the open sea, presumably to aim at forces coming in to attack the island.
Note that not all these guns are supposed to be climbed on, and we did ask the guide first if we can get on them to have photos taken.
There is a spot where a Shinto shrine is located, and it is called the Japanese Garden of Peace. The highlight of this zen garden would be a 10-feet tall statue that faces the general direction of Japan.
From what I’ve seen of people who have visited Corregidor in the past, a highlight of the visit was the Malinta Tunnel, which got its name from the massive number of leeches (or “linta” in the vernacular) found when the tunnel was being constructed. Unfortunately, the Malinta Tunnel’s entire length is not open to guests, but only part of it is.
There are three entrances to the Malinta Tunnel: the North Entrance that leads to the 1000-bed hospital, the West Entrance that leads to the Bottomside Area of the island, and the East Entrance that leads to the Tailside Area.
Both the North and West Entrances are sealed off; our guide took us to the East Entrance and led us inside.
The Main Tunnel was quite wide, like how you’d imagine a major road inside a tunnel. But the interesting parts are the “doors” on the sides that led to various wings or parts of the tunnel. So we got a glimpse of the hospital area and the entrance to the Headquarters of General George Moore.
It was impressive how the Tunnel managed to hold up amid the bombings and attacks it had to go through.
Fortifications and military buildings are built in strategic parts of the island, and we made our way to two of the prime ones that contained most of the batteries left in Corregidor. First was the Battery Way.
Battery Way was completed in 1914, and was named in honor of 2nd Lieutenant Henry Way. According to the plate on site, Battery Way is armed with 4 12-inch M1890 mortar carriages that can fire in any direction, with a firing elevation ranging from 45 to 70 degrees. It is designed to “penetrate the relatively thin deck armor of warships”, as well as enemies that are “entrenched on higher ground in Bataan”.
During the battle on May 2, Battery Way was the last of the island’s “concrete artillery” to cease fire before Corregidor surrendered at 12 noon.
And yes, this time, there are express warnings to not climb on the guns.
Seeing these huge guns up close was very… intimidating, to say the least. It’s not just about the power that they pack, but in their ability to destroy, crush, and kill.
But when you think about it, these are just tools. It’s humans that fire and light them up.
Another notable fortification is Battery Grubbs, named after 1st Lt. Hayden Grubbs. It is a few years older than Battery Way, as it was completed earlier, in 1909.
This battery was built for two “disappearing guns” built at Fort Mills and situated to fire to the northwest, designed for Manila Harbor defenses. Compared to Battery Way, it was much wider,
The Topside area of Corregidor Island is where the Barracks is located. Of course, it fell victim to shadow bombing and various attacks, and what remained was a mile-long ruins of the barracks. Today, it is the famous Mile-long Barracks.
The topside barracks is a three-storey structure located at the “highest and widest plateau of Corregidor Island”. During its time, it was the world’s longest military barracks, reaching up to a maximum length of 1,520 feet. The “mile-long” bit was technically when you add up the lengths of all three floors.
It is made entirely of concrete, and designed to be hurricane-proof.
Then we headed to where the Pacific War Memorial is located. It covers quite a large area, and if you move a bit further, you’d be standing on a viewdeck that affords you a view of the sea, the cove, and the exit to the Malinta Tunnel.
This steel structure, 12 feet tall and painted a fiery red, is the Monument of the Eternal Flame of Freedom. Said to represent “undying liberty”, it was conceptualized by contemporary sculptor Aristides Dimetrios.
You can’t miss the Dome of Peace, a white structure that holds a circular altar in the middle, with the domed roof featuring a hole, or an oculus, allowing sun (and moon) light to shine through it to the altar below.
Fun fact: every time May 6 comes around, that’s the only time that the sun will shine directly on the circular altar below. At least, that’s what the guide told us.
And that circular dome is made entirely of marble. It was also quite interesting hearing your voice echo inside the dome. And no, climbing atop the altar is not allowed, if the signs on the sides of the Dome are anything to go by.
The inscription on the side of the marble altar reads:
Sleep, my sons, your duty done… for Freedom’s light has come
Sleep in the silent depths of the sea, or in your bed of hallowed sod
Until you hear at dawn the low, clear reveille of God
The Pacific War Memorial is, by the way, meant to honor and pay tribute to the American and Filipino soldiers who fought in the Pacific during World War II. Of course, as most would expect, there is a museum for it.
Upon entrance, you’d immediately spot the “Corregidor Flag”, which was the first American flag hoisted over Corregidor Island on December 2, 1898. Notice how it only had 45 stars, because at that time, there were only 45 states in the United States.
There are so many things to see in the museum such as, expectedly, photos and documents, relics and replicas, and there was even a whole room with displays of artillery and ammunition.
This building, or what remains of it, is the Cine Corregidor, where American personnel, as well as their families, get to enjoy watching movies. It is right beside the Pacific War Memorial Museum building.
Maybe it was just me, but I felt like this tour was a bit rushed, we were literally speeding through it. But then again, that was all the time we could allot for it, and we were able to cover some of the more “important” parts of this historic island.
If I were to get the chance to come back, though, I would prefer staying overnight (although I am pretty sure an overnight stay at the Corregidor Hotel would not be cheap) or, at least, a whole day tour.
As promised, here are the going rates for the banca, if you decide to go the Mariveles route to Corregidor. Click on the image to view full file and see the rates.
Leave a Reply