I am one of those who grew up with the concept of “palaces” as pearly-white walled giant edifices with tall towers and turrets, where princesses are locked up so they could grow their hair really long and turn them into rappelling tools. Thanks to more than a handful of Korean dramas, I realized I’ve been limited in my “palace know-how”. And when I found myself in Seoul, I knew that it is a must for me to see at least one palace, and what better way to get a dose of (Korean) royalty than by checking out the most famous one among the Five Palaces of Seoul, the Gyeongbukgong?
Gyeongbukgong, or “Gyeongbok Palace”, or the “Northern Palace”, is the main palace of the Joseon dynasty. It is touted to be the grandest and the most beautiful of the Five Palaces. It is also inarguably the most famous.
On the afternoon of our second day, after spending the morning in Nami Island, (which I’ll get to in a subsequent post) we went back to the City and, maps on hand, headed for the Gwanghamun Station, and came up to the National Palace Museum of Korea. Unfortunately, it was a Sunday, so the museum was closed. No matter, since we were there for another reason, which is the Palace, located just beside the Museum. From the subway exit, we came up on the left side of the Palace.
My first glimpse of Gyeongbokgung, from the Museum stairs.
By the time we arrived, we heard the sound of gongs coming from the Gwanghamun, the main entrance or Main Gate to the Gyeongbokgung. It was already 3pm, and we’re just in time for the changing of the guard, more formally known as the Sumunjang or Royal Guard Changing Ceremony. Naturally, we also rushed towards the gate.
I loved the regal and dignified air of the whole ceremony. It honestly did not feel like a performance. And I was in awe of the costumes, or the colors. Under other circumstances, this much color would come across as “peacock-y”, but this. Is just amazing. Of course, when the performance was over and the new shift of guards took over, we also did not miss the chance to take photos. 🙂 It’s not like they can refuse or complain anyway, right?
The breeze was uncooperative. To me, I mean. It was totally in favor of the guards, blowing the banners to cover their faces. Hmph. I gotta hand it over to these guys, though. They don’t flinch. If not for blinking, you’d think they’re statues.
Now that the ceremony was over, we went through the Gate to explore Gyeongbokgung. Of course, we first had to buy our tickets, which costs 3,000 KRW, or roughly PHP 125. It was a long walk, but the scenery is so worth it. This is the Heungnyemun, the First Gate inside the palace from the Gwanghamun.
After the First Gate, we came on to the Geunjeongjeon, or the Throne Hall. This is where the King holds his court and has an audience with the court officials. It is also where the King receives foreign envoys and emissaries. (Yes, quickly, rewatch those Joseon period dramas!!)
Check out the throne on the bottom part of the photo below, and the colorful walls and high ceiling.
You gotta love the attention to detail.
Right behind the Throne Hall is the Sajeongjeon, or the Council Hall. This is where the King and his court officials routinely hold meetings. It’s smaller than the Throne Hall, but no less grand. Sometimes, this is also referred to as the King’s official residence, since he spends much of his time there.
And then, right behind it, is the Gangnyeongjeon-Gyotaejeon, or the official living quarters of the King and Queen. Others say it is really more the Queen’s domain.
The artwork had a more home-y and relaxing feel, precisely what the King and Queen need after a long day attending to the state’s and the palace’s affairs.
This is the back of their living quarters, the garden of the Queen.
By this time, my camera’s battery died on me. So I intermittently borrowed Peach’s other camera (she brought two. Nuts, no?) and took some shots. For this post, I am also filching some photos she took (peace!)
We also wandered through the smaller Donggung, or the compound devoted to the Crown Prince and Crown Princess. Oh, and look what we came across along the way! Trivia, many scenes from the period drama Dae Janggeum or “Jewel in the Palace” was filmed in this Palace.
Further back is the Hwangwonjeong, a pavilion set on an islet. Fantastic view.
See those barrels at the bottom of the Hwangwonjeong Pond? We honestly do not know what they’re for, but we know for sure they are significant. LOL.
Unfortunately, as much as we would have wanted to hang around even longer, we were already running out of time, and the Palace is closing soon. We also wanted to try out the Hanbok, or to wear the traditional Korean period costume, but the rental place was already closed at 4:30. It was already around 5 when we got out of the Palace. A little over two hours spent inside, and not nearly enough time!
Exiting at the main entrance. 🙂
If I’m not mistaken, the drama Queen In-Hyun’s Man (which I absolutely enjoyed!) was also filmed here. You know those scenes where the male lead found himself transported to modern-day Seoul, and the moment he stepped out of the palace gates, he saw Seoul hundreds of years in his future? I felt giddy at having a small dose of what he must have felt. Imagine going around the palace, then to see this when you step out.
Just across the street is the Jongno-gu or the Gwanghamun Square, a large “island” or “plaza” in the middle of the road, called such since, well, it is right in front of the famed Gwanghamun. When we got across the street, we cannot help but look back at the scenic Gwanghamun and its backdrop.
We actually approached the Gwanghamun Square in reverse, so we’re starting from the back. Apparently, the proper way would be to go up the Square first, then end up at the Palace. But we did it backwards, haha! So the photo below had the throne with its back to us.
This is the Korean Main Plaza section of the Square. The highlight is the Statue of King Sejong the Great (Sejong-ro). By the way, the area is surrounded by theaters and museums. These six columns at the back of the statue had golden carvings, all of which supposedly listing down the achievements of one of the greatest rulers of the Joseon Dynasty.
Sejong was also the one who invented the Hangeul, or the Korean alphabet/writing system. That is what is represented by the large black tablet-like structure at the foot of the statue.
This bronze statue is 9.5 meters high. King Sejong is holding a book, a sure sign of his wisdom and scholarly status.
A small sign at the bottom of the statue. I wonder if some people deliberately misunderstood it and disobeyed it. 🙂
King Sejong’s other notable inventions were also on display in front of the statue. The three following photos are a sundial; the cheugugi or a rain gauge; and a honcheonui or a Korean celestial globe used to pinpoint the location of heavenly bodies.
I did say the area is surrounded by artsy buildings, right? Check out the “advert” for Verdi’s “Aida”, laid out on the wide stairs across the street.
Finally, we reached the “Downtown Plaza” area of Gwanghamun Square, where the 17-meter bronze statue of Admiral Yi Sun-Shin is. Apparently, the turtle ship and the two drums at the foot of the Admiral’s statue, as well as his sword, are highly symbolic.
After this, we crossed the street to go to the subway, head back to the guest house, grab a bite, change some, and head off to explore the city some more.
Next post: a bundle of tricks at the Trick Eye Museum. See you then!
