Did you notice something different about my blog? It’s just a liiiiiiittle change, so you might not notice it, but yes, I moved hosts. I figured I have to make sure that I won’t lose the memories (yes, they are memories) that I write about and share in this little corner of the internet. Granted, the migration is not full yet, I’m about halfway there still, so if you notice some distortions or wrong links, then I’m still in the process of fixing and tweaking them. Slow, baby steps.
For now, I’m going to continue with my South Korea travel series, and here’s another place that I revisited: Gyeongbukgong, or Gyeongbuk Palace.
My first visit to Gyeongbukgong was, I belatedly discovered, a bit short and cut off too early. It was mostly because we didn’t really have enough time to go around, and it was already closing time. This time, I made certain to explore more of the place.
You can check out how my first visit went in this post: A Dose of Royalty at Gyeongbukgong. I will try not to repeat the things I talked about in that post but, in case I do, I apologize in advance.
For a more interactive learning experience about the main palace of the Joseon dynasty, check out the Gyeongbukgong page of Royal Palaces.
From our stroll around Gwanghamun Square, we could already spot the palace guards getting ready for the Changing of the Guards ceremony, the last one for the day. The crowd of visitors are also starting to take their spots to get a good view of the ceremony.
This is the real Gwanghamun, y’all, the Main Gate of what is arguably the most important and popular palace of the Joseon dynasty.
We strolled a bit behind the gate and inside the palace walls as the ceremony has not started yet. Thankfully, there was not a huge crowd as the one during my first visit, although there were still large groups of people.
It would appear also that, that day, or even that week, was a special occasion, because ADMISSION WAS FREE! That means we did not have to pay the 3000 KRW (~ USD 2.50) admission fee.
Check out the view from behind the gate. And of the painting on the ceiling of Gwanghamun.
We then went back out to watch the ceremony. It took roughly 5 to 7 minutes for the “show” to be over. And I call it a show, because they put on one.
I said this before and I say it again: I love how colorful the whole thing is. The typical guards or soldiers or warriors, as we know them today, are more into neutral hues of blacks, browns, grays, navy blues and greens, but they look just as badass in vividly bright colors, methinks. I thought it was just my sageuk drama fan-self thinking that, but when I saw these real albeit costumed guards, I realized I really do find color more welcome in men (and women) in uniform.
I will be adding a short video clip of the ceremony at the end of this post.
Here are closer looks at some of the aspects of the guards’ uniforms.
After the ceremony, everyone was allowed to take photos with the guards. Of course we took the opportunity to do so. Man, they sure do not acknowledge anyone, haha!
After taking photos with the guards, we proceeded on our tour of the Palace. The first gate you will come to after the Gwanghamun is Hyeungnyemun. I know I mentioned before that, should I return to Korea, I will try to wear their hanbok. Too bad, the rental place at the Palace was already closed (again) when we got there.
We did spot some people wearing them, though. Like these two ladies right in front of the Hyeungnyemun. Don’t they look so sweet and adorable?
Past the Hyeungnyemun is the Geunjeongmun, or the Gate that leads directly to the Main Hall of the Gyeongbukgong.
And so, past the Geunjeongmun, is the inner sanctum of the Palace. Its Main Hall, also known as the Throne Hall, Gyeonjungjeon. It is where “the king attended to affairs of state or held grand celebrations”. Sprawled in front of it is a large courtyard “enclosed by a colonnade and covered with coarsely hewn stones.”
Do you spot the stone markers on the path leading up to the Throne Hall? There are twelve pairs of these stone markers, and each marker bears the rank of a court official. The official bearing those ranks will stand behind their designated markers when having an audience with the King.
From the outside, it looks like the Throne Hall has two floors or storeys, doesn’t it?
But no, there is only one floor, but with a high ceiling. That’s where the King sits on his seat of power and authority.
Watching episodes of 2 Days 1 Night brought to my attention how South Korea greatly values its history. They have specific numbers and identifying names for their national treasures. The Gyeonjungjeon, for example, is National Treasure No. 233.
Further behind the Gyeonjungjeon, we arrived at the Gangnyeongjeon, or the living area of the King. This is used for the King’s daily activities and office duties. Unlike the Throne Hall, visitors are allowed to step inside the Gangnyeongjeon.
One of the many wells (I think it is a well) found in the living areas inside the Palace. This one was off to the side of the Gangnyeongjeon.
Right behind the King’s living quarters is the Gyotaejeon, or the main residence of the Queen. This is where she “oversees the efficient functioning of the palatial household”. It’s similar to that of the King’s, but more modest and feminine, with curved edges and softer angles.
But the highlight of the Queen’s main residence would be its Garden and the Chimney of Amisan, which is described as a beautiful terraced mound “made of long rectangular stones with four flower terraces, on which stand decorated stonework and chimneys”.
The Garden looks so serene, so it’s easy to see why the Queen would want to relax here. There are four hexagonal chimneys, with different symbolic decorations, such as a phoenix (the queen), a bat (fortune), a plum and chrysanthemum (a man of virtue) and ten different symbols of longevity.
My first visit to Gyeongbukgong ended here. We turned back and went to the lake, and I had no idea there was more beyond the walls of the Gangnyeongjeon. That is what we will check out in my next post.
Before I go, here’s the 3+ minutes clip of part of the Changing of the Guards ceremony.
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