One more post before October ends. I’m still in a bit of a high from my recent trip to Siargao last week, and already I’m missing the sights and sounds (though not the heat) of that beautiful island down south. I’m not quite sure when I’d be able to post about that trip, maybe months down the line, because I swear that list of backlog posts is getting longer whatonearthishappeningi— SO! Here’s another Nara post to tide me over until then.
In the post before last, I already introduced you to Nara Park and its (in)famous deer interaction. In the previous post, we continued exploring Nara Park by entering the Todaiji Temple complex and visiting the Daibutsu, or the Great Buddha.
This time around, we shall continue exploring a bit of the other parts of Nara Park, and out of it.
Be warned. It’s gonna be quite a loooooong walk.
Wakakusayama
Wakakusayama, or Mount Wakakusa is that mountain behind Todaiji Temple seemingly covered with grass. Although it is a mountain, many refer to it as a hill, hence some of the signs indicating Wakakusayama Hill (a bit redundant, but hey) because it is shorter than your typical mountain, I suppose.
With its peak at only around 350 meters, one can get a full view of Nara City once you reach the peak.
Upon exiting the temple grounds, we followed the small road that led up to the hill. You won’t miss it, really, because the gentle slope is so verdant, it stands out against the blue and white backdrop of the sky and its cotton candy clouds.
The area is fenced in, and there is a flight of steps on both sides, which visitors would take if they want to climb up to the peak of Wakakusayama. Unfortunately, that time when we were there, the gates to the stairs were visibly closed, and no one was climbing.
Why? Because it was scorching hot, and it’d be torture to make that climb.
Close to the fence are rock benches purposely set up underneath the shade of the trees, so if you just want to chill out while enjoying a view of the gently sloping hill, then you may do so.
Of course, expect to be surrounded by deer. Because it seems to be a prime place for them to cool down and stay away from the heat of the sun.
Apparently, at a slow pace, you can get to the peak in an hour. If you’re fast, 35 to 40 minutes. If you’re gung-ho about it, heck, just go at it and take 20.
Oh, and climbing is not free, because to be able to enter, you have to pay a minimal fee. I just am not sure how much.
By the way, right across the road of Wakakusayama is a row of shops and stores composing of restaurants, coffee shops, and souvenir stores. And yes, in some shops, deer can even cross the threshold.
Maybe it’s another way for them to earn their keep. Or shika senbei.
Kasuga Taisha Shrine
Leaving the road of Wakakusayama, we walked down a flight of stone steps and followed arrows pointing us toward Kasuga Taisha Shrine. In fact, the entry to Kasuga Taisha is just 100 meters away from the Wakakusayama entrance gate.
The moment we spotted the vermillion fences and a torii, we knew we finally arrived at what is said to be the “most celebrated shrine in Nara”.
Just like the Todaiji Temple complex and its sprawling grounds, Kasuga Taisha is also quite vast, with the Main Shrine itself occupying only a small part of the expanse of land.
And for those looking for some more nature-tripping, the mountain behind Kasuga Taisha, unsurprisingly named Kasugayama or Mount Kasuga, has that to offer. You can proceed and take the Kasugayama Hiking Course. The arrow pointers even indicated that Uguisunotaki or Uguisuno Falls is 4.5 kms away.
upon entering via the Mizuya-michi (pathway), we found ourselves walking along a trail with woods and forests on both sides.
And if you still did not realize how important and “celebrated” this place is, even earning a World Heritage Site title, then you’d know by the end of your walk through the pathway, what with the numerous markers indicating the info.
From the entrance of the pathway to the Kasuga Taisha main shrine itself, it’s a 350-meter walk, where you’d pass a Prayer Hall with lots of places to hang emas…..
….and also you’d pass by deer. Lots of them. Unbothered and relaxed.
Finally we arrived at the main Kasuga Taisha.
In Japan, it is considered to be one of the most sacred sites considering that it enshrines four gods or deities. Another reason why it is so well-loved is that it is dedicated to the god that provides protection to Nara City.
I don’t know what it is, but there is something calming about this color when I am surrounded by it. Its vibrance may be jarring for some, but for me it’s just so relaxing.
The offering hall is free for viewing, so you don’t have to pay anything to be able to enter.
Upon entering the offering hall, you’d immediately see rows and rows of hanging lanterns. Apparently, that is one of the prides of the place. Bronze and stone lanterns that are said to be donated by worshipers line up the approaches of the hall.
There are two lantern festivals in the shrine: February and August. It is during those lantern festivals that these lanterns are lit up to burn brightly. Must be a sight to behold.
While entrance to the offering hall is free, viewing the inner buildings requires a special admission area fee of 500 JPY. Maybe we were just all “walked-out” by then, because we decided to pass on it and just keep walking.
Oh, and 2018 happened to be the 1,250th year of the shrine. Wow. That’s… old.
Upon exiting, you can follow the main dirt road, and make stops to check out the Botanical Garden or even the Deer House. We only peered at these structures from outside, and continued our leisurely stroll along the trail, alongside other visitors, and meeting newcomers as well.
And a permanent fixture would be the deer EVERYWHERE, even up to the end of the gate, to the road.
Kofukuji
Getting to Kofukuji was a bit of a challenge, mainly because the sun was just too hot and high up, and we were walking on concrete, with sparse shade. In fact, we found ourselves sticking real close to the walls of the sidewalks just to get that scant shade provided by the cast of shadows.
Until finally, we saw the entrance leading up to the temple.
Kofukuji, or Kofuku Temple, is the family temple of Nara’s most powerful family of nobles, the Fujiwaras.
When it was first constructed, there were more than 150 buildings in the entire complex. Now, there are only around ten, and the Central Golden Hall was under (re)construction when we visited. Boo-hoo. And so were parts of their Pagodas. Double boo-hoo.
Aside from the Central Great Hall and the Pagodas, another unique feature of this place are its two octagonal halls. This one is on the southern side, and the other is on the northern side.
Check out the Central Great Hall, which looks all wrapped up. That other building is the Eastern Golden Hall, and you can slightly see a bit of the Five-storied Pagoda.
We would’ve made that walk to the Pagoda… but it was just too dang hot. In fact, when we entered the small convenience store just off to the side, it was to find it packed with visitors who are trying to cop up some freshness from the air conditioner and buying the heck out of the vending machines.
I would say that the perfect time to visit (or revisit, mind you) this place would be during spring or early autumn, when the weather is just cool enough so you can walk to your heart’s content without fearing dehydration. I honestly went through some serious water consumption on this day, and maybe even a soda or two. And an ice cream. And Lord knows they are quite pricey when bought from the (dare I say, “strategically placed”?) vending machines along the walking trails of Nara. What good marketing strategy.
I’ll be wrapping up my Nara visit on my next post, because I found I still have a number of things to talk and rave about the place. See ya then!
Leave a Reply