One thing that frustrates me about traveling is the time constraint. Especially if I find myself someplace with soooo much to see, but with limited time on my hands to check them all out. Kyoto is one of those places. There’s just so many gems, so one has to be strategic in planning out their itinerary so they can make the most of it. As much as I appreciate being all chill and relaxed with my itinerary, I’m more the type that wants to cram as much as I can in what little time I have in a place. I’m greedy like that.
On my previous visit to Kyoto, we only had a little more than 2 days to go around, so we decided to pick 1-2 places from each of the districts: Nijo Castle, Kyoto Imperial Palace (Part 1 and Part 2), Kyoto Goen National Garden, and Nishiki Market in Central Kyoto. Kiyomizudera and Ginkakuji in Eastern Kyoto. Fushimi Inari Shrine (Part 1, Part 2, and Part 3) in Southern Kyoto. Kinkakuji in Northern Kyoto.
The only district I did not set foot on during my first Kyoto trip was the northern part. So this time around, I resolved to spend a whole day in Northern Kyoto. Specifically, Arashiyama.
Welcome to Arashiyama
The Arashi fan in me couldn’t help but be tickled pink at the name association I derive from the place. “Arashi”, as the name of the five-piece rainbow group that I adore, and “Yama”, which is the moniker attributed to the tandem of the two eldest members of Arashi: Ohno and Sho.
Of course, I know the name is entirely from a different etymology, but let my fangirl self live, aiight?
Arashiyama is a 15-minute train ride via JR Line from Kyoto Station. Upon arrival at the Saga-Arashiyama Station, you’d have to walk for around 10 minutes to get to the heart of the tourist town of Arashiyama.
When we speak of Arashiyama, the sightseeing spots usually associated with the name are the bamboos, or the bamboo groves. In fact, you cannot separate Arashiyama from chikurin, or its bamboo forest. Since, according to the map we had on hand, the places of interest can be hit if you just keep walking around, that’s exactly what we did.
We first came on to one of the gates of the Tenryuji Temple, but decided to follow the trail on our “makeshift map”, and go on to the bamboo groves first.
We were quite early, having left Kyoto Station at a little past 7am. So at 7:45, the streets were still relatively empty, and all shops and stores on the roadside were still closed. Well, except the odd coffee shop here and there for those who are looking for their early morning caffeine fixes.
The good thing about walking around is the presence of signs, telling you whether you’re on the right track or not.
And then we found ourselves on a narrow road flanked by rows and rows of tall bamboos on either side.
And there were already more than a few people ahead of us, coming in waaaay earlier, clearly.
I’d be honest: impressed though I was at the lofty heights of these bamboo trees, I felt a little disappointed at the sight of those electric and power lines marring the view. I thought, ‘wait, is this it? This does not look like the ones I saw in photos!’
Fortunately, we saw signposts later on that told us there are more bamboo groves up ahead. So we pushed on.
As you follow the road, you’d find yourself getting deeper and deeper into the bamboo forest. Along the way, you’d also be passing by several places of interest.
Like the Nonomiya Shrine, where the Goddess of the Sun, or Amaterasu, is enshrined. I’d have another post dedicated to the Shrine, where I’ll talk more about it.
By the way, a train line cuts through the bamboo forest, so you’d have to wait when all is clear before you can cross.
I gotta say, there’s a bit of a thrill standing in the middle of the rail tracks.
After crossing the rail track, we came upon this section called “The Bamboo Forest Trail”. It’s like a mini- bamboo park, with a walking trail that allows you to make a full circuit of the park.
And yes, it’s filled with bamboos.
Apparently, these are not just any type of bamboo, because they are madake or Japanese Timber Bambo. They were so tall and proud, standing there, looking completely unbothered.
Clearly, the place is a trap for people who like to take photos. We even saw a couple having their wedding photos professionally taken, while wearing traditional wedding garb. They even allowed the tourists to take photos with the bride.
We declined when they asked us if we would like to take photos because (1) the groom was looking on, and (2) it’s their wedding photos, their moment, so who are we to intrude.
Loved the bride’s outfit, though.
After exiting the Bamboo Forest Trail, we kept walking, following the road and the signposts. And we passed by other points of interest as well (which I’ll talk about in another blog post, because this one’s purely bamboo-focused) until we reached the main part of the bamboo forest of Arashiyama.
While we were walking around earlier, there were only a few other tourists milling about. We now knew why: because they were all here.
You see, this can also be reached from another direction. We took the longer route, which is why when we got there, there were already quite a number of people.
Which means taking photos SOLO is difficult.
I think the attraction of a visit to the bamboo groves (aside from the tall bamboos themselves) is the walk one would take through the walking paths that cut through and across the forest. If walking is not your thing, you have the option to hire a bicycle and ride instead.
Arashiyama is not completely urbanized, because it still retains a rural vibe even in the center. But once you are within the bamboo forest, it is easy to forget that fact, and think you are in an entirely different era of Japan.
I was actually imagining Himura Kenshin appearing from out of nowhere.
According to the time stamps, we started walking from the Saga-Arashiyama Station at 7:30. From there, we started our walk through the Arashiyama Bamboo Forest, following the Path of the Bamboo, and arrived here, at its bamboo heart, at 9:30 am, which means it took us 2 hours.
But that duration includes the 30+ minutes we spent inside the Bamboo Forest Trail area, just taking photos and being all leisurely about walking around. *grins*
You can’t miss Arashiyama’s Bamboo Forests once you come to this part of Kyoto. I’m glad I was finally able to come here, because I was certainly ruing not having been able to do so the first time I was in the area.
More of my Arashiyama day trip on my next post. See ya then!
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