This week-long rain is putting a damper on my spirits; it’s as if the sun decided to hide for a bit to make us realize our transgression of complaining about her heat and glare. We’ll never win, I guess. But, to pick myself up, let me just hark back on that day I spent walking around and about Arashiyama in Kyoto, Japan.
I have been talking about Arashiyama for the past several posts, but mainly zeroing in on some of the main attractions worth checking out while there. This time, though, this’d be more on the things that we saw, noted, and experienced while walking around the main sightseeing area of one of Japan’s designated Historic Site and Place of Scenic Beauty.
Warning: Image-heavy post. Kinda.
By the way, from Kyoto Station, we caught the 7:50 train on the Sagano (San-in) Line for Saga Arashiyama. The train ride lasted 17 minutes, just as Hyperdia said it would. (Yes, Hyperdia is a must when commuting within Japan.)
Unlike the bustling and crowded stations in Tokyo and Kyoto (at least the ones we’ve been), the Saga Arashiyama Station was so quiet and so… country-fied, when we disembarked. Even the facade of the station, and the building itself, has that feeling of “urbanized rural”…. or something. There’s just that air of calmness about the place that made me feel excited for the day ahead.
Even the walk from the station to the heart of Arashiyama’s sightseeing district is quite a treat. It takes all of 10 minutes, plus more if you are like us and you stopped numerous times just to take photos or to take it all in.
Yes, I am charmed. By the storefronts (that were still closed at that time) and houses… It must be really a peaceful residential area, because aside from the sound of the train passing overhead at intervals, the place is quiet and serene.
Like this “Pension Mind Games”, for example. I wouldn’t mind getting to stay here a few days or nights, given the chance.
Going around Arashiyama district’s heart is relatively easy (although a map is always going to be handy). In our case, we had no maps, and solely relied on the signs and pointers/indicators strategically placed all over.
I also liked how there were time indicators included, telling you how many minutes it’d take on foot to get to the site you are aiming for. Or even when you’re not aiming for it.
Like, for example, how we stumbled on Nonomiya Shrine while following the Path of Bamboo.
If we’re going to be technical about the geographic aspect of things, once you follow the arrows leading to the main Path of Bamboo, you’re essentially venturing into the Saga Ogurayama area, a scenic spot that is reminiscent of the Kyoto of old.
These are apparent in the structures, both commercial and residential buildings, because they have that old Kyoto vibe to them. Interspersed within, however, are signs of modernization, like the conveniences of electricity and contemporary architecture, most likely for practicality’s sake.
We passed by the Rakushisha, although we did not dwell long in it, since it was still closed. If I remember correctly, they were just about to open, because it’s already close to 9am when we passed by.
The Rakushisha is a thatched hut made of clay material, and the name literally translates to “Hut of Fallen Persimmons”. This residence is famous for being the home of Mukai Kyorai, one of the disciples of haiku master Matsuo Basho.
I don’t exactly blame anyone wanting to live in seclusion in an area with this view, particularly if you are a poet who gets inspiration from beauty and stillness.
What I thought to be a simple museum turns out to be quite a big deal once I looked up Tosa shitenno later.
Translated to “the Big Four of Tosa”, the Tosa Shitenno statue stands proud outside an unassuming structure. Apparently, the Big Four of Tosa were Nakaoka Shintaro, Sakamoto Ryoma, Takechi Zuizan, and Yoshimura Torataro.
They are four samurais of the Tosa estate, all of whom were assassinated, killed in battle, or made to commit seppuku before they were 31, which is quite young by samurai standards, I presume.
And there’s also Jojakkoji Temple which, just like the Nonomiya Shrine, was tucked away along the Path. It’s clearly designed for solitude, judging from its location at the foot of the mountain, as if hidden from the public. No wonder people come here for solitude and maybe just to have an alone time with their thoughts and nature.
Jojakkoji Temple requires an entrance fee of JPY400 for adults, and when we were there, there were only a handful of people inside. Well, at least that’s what it looked like from outside, because we didn’t really go in.
Here’s one thing that jumped out at us while walking. There were some of these “no street solicitation” signs.
You see, there are several shops, dining places and coffee shops tucked away along the path. Some of them you won’t even notice unless you peer closer beyond the gates, because many of the buildings seemed like regular residential houses. Well, some of them actually turn out to be restaurants, with gardens as their main halls.
Apparently, it is forbidden in these parts (or maybe even entire city of Kyoto, if the sign is to be believed) to wait and tout. Or, simply put, solicit customers into their places of business.
The reason? They simply wanted tourists, or everyone walking around the area to do so undisturbed, without anyone hounding their heels to try out this or that product.
The result? A very clean and orderly place, kinda like the neighborhood of many’s dreams, where you can walk around confidently, undisturbed and free.
This is the height of summer and the colors are very refreshing. Imagine during autumn when the place is a burst of fiery reds and oranges… or spring when eveything is in full bloom or, at the very least, at the verge of blooming.
I’d definitely want to live in a neighborhood like this at least once in my life.
So maybe you are wondering, is Arashiyama all about bamboos, trees, and nature?
Well, fret not, city urchins, because you can still channel your urban-ish sensibilities in Arashiyama. But! Of course, urban with a touch of old Kyoto.
Aside from the obvious difference in the architecture of the buildings and the unmistakable appearance of locals and tourists dressed in traditional Japanese garb, perhaps the most telling indication that the streets of Arashiyama still evokes the old Kyoto vibe would be the presence of jinrikisha, or Japanese rickshaws.
The jinrikisha, which is a spin-off of the older sedan chair, is a hand-pulled rickshaw that was originally used to transport goods and cargo back in the day because they proved to be faster than using horses. Today, they are means for foreign tourists to go sightseeing in old towns without having to tire themselves out walking.
Perhaps this is why it’s like a given for ladies wearing yukatas to ride on a jinrikisha, since walking for a long time in the constricting dress, along with the wooden geta sandals, is not the most comfortable thing.
The jinrikishas are pulled by men, who are notably masculine or with the body and stamina to pull (and even run with) the ricksaw on the streets. In fact, it is expected that they be hunks, or ikemen, or good-looking, manly men, just to gain more points with the passengers. (Fan service, anyone?)
Perhaps another highlight of a trip to Arashiyama is checking out the Togetsukyo Bridge, which you will arrive at even if you just follow the length of the main road.
In fact, you won’t miss it, because there is bound to be a stream of people walking in that direction.
Running across the Saga Arashiyama area is the Katsura River, and over it is built the famed Togetsukyo Bridge, a 155-meter long bridge that gives you excellent views of both the river and the Arashiyama mountain itself.
The original bridge was built in 836, and of course, as per usual, it was rebuilt in 1934, and that’s the one we are seeing today. If you look closely at some parts of the bridge, it appears the materials used included wood (the photo above), and concrete. Well, it turns out that the beams and columns are made of reinforced concrete. The parapets or the wall extensions are made of cypress wood.
Despite being a tourist attraction, Togetsukyo Bridge is a functional passageway for vehicles and commuters.
Aside from offering spectacular views in practically all seasons, Togetsukyo also offers a lot in terms of activities. Aside from walking the entire length this way and back, there are also restaurants and coffee shops close by, if you want to dine al fresco with a view of the river and the mountains. Souvenir shops are also abundant, for those who want to splurge on some shopping.
We also spotted some jinrikishas at the end of the Bridge, since many tourists would like to experience riding on one while crossing Togetsukyo.
And of course, a walking tour would not be complete without the mention of food!
Just like in our walking tour of Kawagoe, there was very little difference in how the main street of Arashiyama was set up. There were many shops and stores and restaurants offering various foods and goodies.
It’s like you just pick your poison.
Or, more like pick your wallet’s poison, because dang, most of these do not come cheap!
They looked very tempting, though, but the price tag, and thank goodness we had a filling breakfast back at Kyoto Station, we passed on these meal sets that offer gastronomic delights at atmospheric prices.
This caught my eye. It seems this is a popular street snack during summer. These are cucumbers on sticks, or kyuri asazuke.
Kyuri asazuke are essentially lightly pickled cucumbers skewered on sticks. Apparently, sometimes they are also sold whole, sans the sticks, but it was the one on sticks that we saw in the streets of Arashiyama. To maintain its coolness, they are kept chilled in ice water.
My buddy Rog was particularly on the lookout to try the octopus even when we first passed the closed stall earlier that morning. When we came back from Tenryuji Temple, we made it a point to stop by and satisfy her craving.
According to her, it was not spectacular, just so-so. I wouldn’t know, because I’m not really into octopus, haha. Well, except in my takoyaki.
So I stuck to my one (of many) weakness: matcha. In soft serve ice cream form.
I love how the sprinkle of ground green tea leaves on the ice cream added more character to the taste.
I’m kinda weak like that: it’s hot, I’m in Japan, I see green tea/matcha. So I cave.
This wraps up my Arashiyama day trip experience. I’d have to say it was a very fruitful day, so when we went back mid-afternoon to central Kyoto, we still had plenty of time to go back to our hotel, freshen up, rest a bit, then hit Pontocho and Gion later that evening. All in all, a very memorable and fruitful day spent in one of Kyoto’s most scenic areas.
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